Topic: intek 44ci sump question.

[ole4]

I have a intek Vtwin built in 06 that I rebuilt a while ago due to bore wear from dirt ingestion. Motor has been running great since but after about 50 hours the oil pressure hot drops to around 15lbs and It was not that low after the rebuild. I thought that maybe the oil pump was damaged from the dirt and took it apart and it was a bit scored. I replaced it and the base plate but no change to oil pressure. You cant really see much of the oil bypass but I used a scribe to press against the spring and it seems to function. Anyway I am getting a new flywheel du bush and wanted to replace the plain bearing sump as well. I want to get all the parts before pulling it apart. I see that there is a newer style sump that appears to have a thicker georotor oil pump (the gears appear thicker) and that would by itself increase the volume. I was wondering if you can replace the old style sump with this newer style? Does anybody know if they can interchange?  The old sump has a round stamped steel plate where the new sump has a rounded triangle plate on it. Any help with this would be much appreciated.

[birdman_express]

What is your model and serial numbers?

[ole4]

445577 0110 e1 date code year 2006 bought the mower in 07. 

[PJG56]

I have a intek Vtwin built in 06 that I rebuilt a while ago due to bore wear from dirt ingestion. Motor has been running great since but after about 50 hours the oil pressure hot drops to around 15lbs and It was not that low after the rebuild. I thought that maybe the oil pump was damaged from the dirt and took it apart and it was a bit scored. I replaced it and the base plate but no change to oil pressure. You cant really see much of the oil bypass but I used a scribe to press against the spring and it seems to function. Anyway I am getting a new flywheel du bush and wanted to replace the plain bearing sump as well. I want to get all the parts before pulling it apart. I see that there is a newer style sump that appears to have a thicker georotor oil pump (the gears appear thicker) and that would by itself increase the volume. I was wondering if you can replace the old style sump with this newer style? Does anybody know if they can interchange?  The old sump has a round stamped steel plate where the new sump has a rounded triangle plate on it. Any help with this would be much appreciated.

No,you cant just replace the pump ,the sump is different to accept the high volume pump

[ole4]

I want to replace the old style sump with the new style. I found one on eBay I just bought. Has the new style sump/oil pump cover. The date code of that engine was a 13 so it’s a 2013 but it is the new style. I’m hoping it fits.

[ole4]

I do not want to just replace the oil pump I want to replace the old style sump with new style. I have purchased a newer style sump which has the triangular oil pump cover. It is a 2013 date code which is before the parts catalog showing a 2015 date code for the change but looking at pictures of the sump it is the newer style.

[PJG56]

I want to replace the old style sump with the new style. I found one on eBay I just bought. Has the new style sump/oil pump cover. The date code of that engine was a 13 so it’s a 2013 but it is the new style. I’m hoping it fits.

Yes it will fit,you will need the pump drive shaft as it is different on the high volume pump than the standard one,hopefully your ebay sump comes with it!

[ole4]

It does but it may not be the high volume pump.  I saw a new 44 motor on ebay and it has the oil pump cover like the sump I bought but I can see that the pump extends below the flat fave of the sump by almost 1/4 inch. The mounting feet seem longer. So I may have bought a newer style sump with the aluminum triangular shaped oil pump cover but it may be standard oil pump.  I’ll post here some pics when I get it. Should be here Thursday. 

[ole4]

Got the eBay sump today and it does have the larger oil pump. Georotor gears are twice the diameter of the original.  Wonder why the running change? 

[birdman_express]

Got the eBay sump today and it does have the larger oil pump. Georotor gears are twice the diameter of the original.  Wonder why the running change?

So the engines last longer.

[ole4]

Thanks for the reply’s. I am gathering parts so I can limit downtime. Got the sump and it has the new oil pump and I verified pto diameter (plain bearing no du bush) and it’s on low side of spec which I was happy about. Cam bearing also good. I got a oil cooler adapter but it came without o ring so that’s coming as well as cooler itself. All briggs stuff that comes on 49 cube motors. Have the flywheel side du bush in case that does not check out. Plan to do a leak down before tear down but do not expect any issues.

[ole4]

Got a new oil pressure gauge to verify the low oil readings, this one is full face and more granular and it reads the same so I pulled the engine, I had noticed some oil coming down the back side of the engine so before removing the engine I pulled the flywheel and there was a lot of dirt stuck to oil so it would appear there is a slight weep at the upper flywheel seal. I had replaced that when I rebuilt the engine but was thinking if the flywheel DU bush is worn it may cause weeping out of the seal. I could not wiggle the top of the crank to try to see if bush was loose but I guess I will have to disassemble and measure it. I had pictures I took when I rebuilt it at 200 hours and under the flywheel was dirty but dry not a oily mess like it was today. I will post updates as I proceed. Here is a pic of the area with the oil film.

[ole4]

starting disassembly and measured the PTO bearing of the sump and it is .002 larger than the new sump. It is right at the reject dimension. I also did a leakdown test and it passed with flying colors, 35 on one cylinder and 4% on the other.

[ole4]

Meant 3% and 4%

[ole4]

Well after more inspecting I realized that my dial bore gauge read in 5/10000 not .001 increments. Everything I measured crank journals pto bearing and rod journals were in spec with the loosest being the upper du bush. I am going to guess the bypass must be leaking. Anyway I found two valves leaking, one intake which was very minor and one exhaust that leaked a bit more but when I took it out it had visible runout and took a few passes on the valve grinder to true it. When it was rebuilt at 200 hours I had replaced two valves but not sure of intake or exhaust but I don't believe it was that way then. So short block is back assembled with the new sump with bigger oil pump. I am also adding a oil cooler to it.