Kinda a lil late on this but looking for some ideas on changes I should do to be more competitive for next year since theres only 2 race days left for me here in pei Canada which I wont be going to cause my truck is broke down but anyways
Here's what a current got
I start front to back
1985 cub cadet 1215
Over the motor direct steering
40ci vtwin inteck
Aluminum flywheel
And other mods
Centrifugal clutch with 4" pulley
Right angle gear box with 8" pulley
Sprockets are 14 and 45
1" axle
Chinese atv brakes
Tires are hi run (princess auto brand)
Front 15-6-6( I think) rear 18-8.5-8
Arc hubs
Front rims are Chinese atv
Rear rims are golf cart rims
If anyone has any ideas please post or send me a message
I'm still new to this stuff and this tractor was my first major ground up build thanks in advance

over the past few months ive built this race tractor its a craftsman with a 19.5 opposed twin motor and a splicer 6 speed transaxle with a 7 to 4 pulley swap its got an electric fuel pump and its gonna have direct steering in the next couple days figured id post to see what you guys think and any advice would be greatly appreciated  the rules that im working with are below:

SUPER STOCK TWIN - S/S TWIN
This class is a fast paced, competitive class aimed at both novice and experienced drivers. relatively low cost, and minimal mechanical knowledge required. Very fun and competitive class, usually the largest class.
SUPER STOCK TWIN CLASS RULES: Racers must be at least 15 years of age.
-Full face helmet is mandatory. A neck brace is highly recommended.
-HP range : 15-20hp ( This is the recommended engine HP range for this class, up to the maximum 20hp. Smaller engines are permitted.)
-Original mower type opposed twin cylinder, or OHV single cylinder engines.
- Original chassis must be used, but may be modified. Stock wheelbase must be retained.
-Engines must remain 100% stock. Absolutely no internal performance modifications allowed. Stock Carburetors only. Governor may  be removed. Exhaust and air filter may be modified. A scattershield made of 1/8 steel around the flywheel is highly recommended, in the event of a flywheel failure, this will contain it, reducing the chances of injury.
-Hand or foot throttle allowed.
-Lowering is highly recommended to increase stability, and stock steering allowed, but not recommended. Stock steering may be modified or replaced with a custom setup.
-Mowers MUST have working brakes.
-Mowers must have a proper working tether killswitch (No home made killswitches!)
-Must use an original equipment transaxle, must be belt driven. No chain drive gear boxes, or right angle boxes. NO GO KART TORQUE CONVERTERS, or CENTRIFUGAL CLUTCHES.
-MAX width is 40" at the widest point. No lengthening of stock axles or spindles. If you wish to widen axles or spindles, use 1 piece axle stock, (or Grade 8 bolts for front spindles).
-Rear bumper recommended.
- Keep levers and shifters short so as not to impose a risk to you or others in case of an upset. All sharp edges or protruding object must be removed.
- It is highly recommended to modify the axles and spindles to a more reliable means of wheel retention other than the factory C clips, ie: center drilled / tapped, or weld on studs. Absolutely no cotter pins or bent nails!
-Mower type tires only. No aggressive ATV tires.
- Fuel tank and batteries must be secured tightly. Metal All around is acceptable. No zip ties.

Hey all,
My name is Thomas and im new to building racing mowers anyone have any advice for me? im currently building a craftsman 2 mower that had a 12.5hp briggs motor in it that ive upgraded to a 17hp kohler vtwin. the fenders have been lowered as well but im gonna leave the chassis alone for now just to see what its like.