Been away from the sport since 2007... Always thinking about getting back involved with mower racing. Miss the people. The sport had  introduced new friends and "family". Sport really made me feel good. Wasn't a good racer at all, enjoy building and helping more then actual driving.

 Been playing with cars since I sold my BP to MTV...The hot rods and such I have built over the past couple years have helped keep me busy but always think back to the "mower" days.

I kinda just disappeared from the sport, lost contact with many friends, and feel bad for doing so...my apoligies.

Lots of things been hapening in my life over the past few years that have helped open my eyes to what is really important.

So, just openly thinking about returning to the sport that many people had helped me to get started in. 

Is the special bracket required when using the adjustable cassettes? George has a U shaped bracket for his cassettes and I was wonder why those are necissary... I would think that the 3 mounting bolts for the cassette and 4 smaller bolts for the slider would hold everything in place very well...

The [___] shape of the mounting brackets add rigidity to the cassette mounting surface. Most mower construction has you mounting you axle "THRU" the rear sheetmetal stampings of your mower....this sheetmetal is thin (.125" and less)  and not sturdy enough to really take the abuse a racing mower exihibits.

By adding (welding) the bracket onto/over your mowers stamping and with the "u" shape design of it...you will have a rock solid bearing mounting point.

I prefer the snowmobile style kill switches...they are a push on, pull off......I first installed the fork style....and while working on the mower I pulled the lanyard at a weird angle....the fork broke off in the switch and kept running.....maybe a "RARE" thing to happen....but it scared me enough to go to the cap style kill as used on sleds.

3/8 fine for tie-rod and 1/2" for kingpin. Spend the extra money and get QUALITY ones...not $9.99 .500" ones....they will BEND/BREAK! (been there--done that!)

You can also go to a store like HOMEY DEPOT or LOWES and get that ANTI-SLIP tape. That was what I've used in the past. It comes in a variety of styles (roll's, sheets, strips).




I've fount the anti-slip tape to be much better than the original rubber pads on the footboards especially if it is a wet race day.

Don't just give up yet!!!  If you have your heart set on DRAG RACING...SPREAD THE WORD in your area and get something in the works!!

I raced for a few years with the USLMRA, sold my mower, ready to build up another one for circle track racing...ended up having major shoulder reconstrutive surgery. I've only recently started to feel better...but have lost a good range of motion in one arm that will not come back. I will not be sitting on a mower, side by side, slinging my body around turning left again 

With the internal need for speed....I have recently started the build of an ASPHALT drag mower to be raced against ATV's, Motorcycles and sleds at my local dragstrip. I won't be awarded any points or anything of that sort...but it's fine by me. My body can take the stright line abuse far better than the circle track type of racing.

I may be the only one their racing a mower....but I'm sure the exposure will catch on!

How do you think organizations like USLMRA and ARMA got organized?? Sure having major sponsors for an organization helps...but it's people like you and me who keeps any type of motorsport going and growing.

Just think SAFETY!!! no matter what type of racing you do..SAFETY IS NUMER ONE PRIORITY!!!!

Per my local dragstrip, I must follow all safety guidlines in place for the NHRA ATV classes. Additional safety measures are being applied during my build, but at least I have reference class to build off offor safety.

Be sure to get the Stainless Steel Ty-wraps as well!! (or use can use aircraft safety wire as well)

I'm a big EC fan.

My BP had a fully adjustable axle that I built but used EC SPINDLES. I have an SP now with a EC axle.

The EC design is very solid. Their spindles are simply the strongest ones avail.  Most other axle builders use AZUZA spindles that seem to be very soft and bend on some of the rougher tracks I've been on. The only time I bent an EC spindle was when my mower decided to do some gymnastics (kartwheel)!

I also like EC end plate design. Both upper and lower heim adjustments are in slotted holes. No matter how much you play with caster, you DO NOT effect the wheelbase. With only one slotted adjustment..your wheelbase changes...so if you are running 8* caster on one side and 15* on the other, your wheels base will differ side to side and your chassis (if nice and squarely built) may be fighting itself.

A lot will depend on your budget as well. If building to USLMRA specs...and you feel you will be doing the sport for some time...START RACING in either an IMOW or SP class and build your mower as a PREPARED CHASSIS...Build it once and build it right!