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Topics - Tom Fox

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16
Chassis / Brake BIAS bar suggestions needed
« on: February 07, 2008, 07:57:45 pm »
What type of set-up are you guys running for adjusting bias FRONT/REAR??

I know that there are a a few commectially avail units out there for connecting two MC's together to adjust...but what other options are there???

I'm sure I can figure out a way but my brain cells are worn out from work today!!! LOL

Thanks!!

17
USLMRA Races / MOWRAUDERS First MEETING/BUILD CLINIC Scheduled!
« on: February 05, 2008, 10:27:37 pm »
I'm looking to get a meeting together to introduce everyone to each other and talk about the future plans of HRV MOWRAUDERS and your racing goals and expectations.

This would also be an informative BUILD CLINIC for you to see what is involved in making your racer SAFE, RELIABLE and FUN to race!

The date is set for APRIL 5th (Saturday) Starting at 1pm in Brookfield, CT

If you are in the process of building a racer, please bring it along so we can see how your progress is going and offer suggestions and guidance if any are needed.

The first part of the day will be a SOCIAL type gathering. Getting to know a little about your fellow racer, talk about where you would like to race, tell you where you can race with the CT and PA Local chapters of USLMRA.

After that intro...we will go over the rules and answer any questions you may have about them. We will go over STEERING GEOMETRY and how important it is to our racers. Go thru a PEERLESS 700 transmission build. Go over some basic clutch systems and talk about engine performance products and suppliers of Mower Racing Components.

It may seem like a lot...but you will leave with knowing your fellow racer and club members. You will also be taking home a nice 3 ring binder full of information that will have useful information about Lawn Mower Racing and Technical information for your build.


I will need a HEAD COUNT of those whom would be interested in attending our FIRST get-together!!
IF you would like to attend this get-together or need more info please contact me at TOMFOX@MOWRAUDERS.COM

More information can be found at www.mowrauders.com/SCHEDULE

Thank You!
Tom Fox

18
USLMRA Races / USLMRA's latest AC!!!!!! The HRV MOWRAUDERS!
« on: February 04, 2008, 07:03:28 pm »
I Would like to take this opportunity to introduce to you the latest USLMRA Affiliated Club (AC)……………..

The HUDSON RIVER VALLEY MOWRAUDERS!

We will be based out of WESTERN CONNECTICUT with the club covering into the HUDSON RIVER VALLEY of NEW YORK, WESTERN MASS, NORTH EAST PA and NORTHERN NJ (all within 2 hours drive of WESTERN CT)

After many days upon days being disappointed in the lack of Lawn Mower Racing in my neck of the woods….Not sure what direction to go….but after conversations with area USLMRA chapters and Bruce Kaufman (el’ Presidente’ of USLMRA)…..It became a “NO-BRAINER” to form a racing club within an area that has neighboring USLMRA CHAPTERS for their support and guidance!

I really enjoy the sport of Lawn Mower Racing soo much that family thinks I should be committed!!!  So my thoughts were “Why not start a Lawn Mower Racing club!”  The men with the white coats should be at my front door any day now!!!

All joking aside….

I’ve been around a ton of different racing throughout my life. I’ve raced Karts, Dirt Modifieds, quads, and worked for a Formula car team traveling all over the place!
Lawn Mower Racing has really found a place in my heart. From my first introduction on a DISCOVERY CHANNEL show called TURF ROCKETS a few years ago…it was stuck in my head and couldn’t shake it (nor did I want to!). I actually only have been “HANDS ON INVOLVED” since the fall of 2006 when I started the build of my first racer. 

What really surprised me (after being involved with other forms of racing) is how much EVERYONE wants to help the next person in getting their racer together, working out the bugs, where to get this, how to do that….ect. That is something that is unheard of in most forms of racing and what I live for!!! I really enjoy helping people and this sport was a great opportunity to share my “LIMITED” knowledge but as I learn, So will everyone around me!!

I was planning (prior to the formation of this club) to do some serious traveling to further strengthen my racing experience and of course to meet fellow racers….That is going to be reduced quite some bit until I can get the MOWRAUDERS off the ground.

I really LOVE racing but making the sport grow gives me so much more satisfaction!!!

Well, I can go on for hours talking about my love of this sport but don’t want to “BORE” everyone to death!!!

So….. PLEASE help me spread the word of this new club that is in its infantile stage…We will be SOARING and FLYING before we know it!!!


Thanks for your time!!
Tom Fox
Founder/President HUDSON RIVER VALLEY MOWRAUDERS!
www.MOWRAUDERS.com

Yahoo Group
http://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/HRVmowrauders/


19
Driveline / P700 Gear Locater/lock
« on: January 24, 2008, 05:45:58 pm »
For those of you running a p700 or other types of INLINE shifters....Are you running any type of lock-out on your shifter?? Let me explain a bit better.....

Lets say you are racing on a track that you will race in 2nd gear. Is there a need to  put some type of stop/lock so you don't hit your shifter out of gear??
(maybe a flip over type plate??)

I'm in the garage building a new "SHIFTER" plate for my changeover to a 700 and figure I'd ask before I start cutting.

The factory detents on a 700  feel pretty good and just want to make sure they are enough to hold it in gear. Thanks!

20
Driveline / Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
« on: January 12, 2008, 11:39:27 am »
Due to size...this topic is being split up...it will follow step-by step...but give me a few moments to post all sections of the build-Thanks!



I just race-prepped my 700 series tranny and documented STEP-BY-STEP what was done.

First and foremost…..I would have not attempted this without the help here at HEYMOW!!! The advice given here is priceless and just want to do my part and give some back to you guys!

This is pretty much the same as George’s RACE PREP procedure..except with some pictures and a few of my own additions.

For part numbers and other specifics…please read Georges post http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=192.0


First thing that was done was the tranny was taken completely apart. The only items left in the case was the input needle bearings.

The case halves, gears, shafts, keys…ect were complete cleaned and given a very close inspection for wear and any cracks.




The four shaft bushings WERE NOT cleaned in a solvent. They were just wiped off  and checked for wear. They were just fine and will be reused.

Reverse gears/chain went in the scrap pile…will not be used in a race tranny.

I installed 4 long bolts into the lower case to act as a stand while putting tranny together.









Once all your parts heve been inspected and/or replaced…it is time to start the assembly:

First thing I do is to get the needle bearing on the input snout repacked with grease.

This is done by pushing some good quality automotive grease into the input snout.
You then take the input shaft in one hand and with your other hand/finger cover the opposite end. SLOWLY push the input shaft into the snout.









This shaft acts as a plunger and forces the grease around the needle bearings.

Once you feel that there was sufficient penetration of grease into the bearings, you can now remove the shaft and wipe away the excess grease that came out of the snout.






---From the factory, there was a O-RING on the bottom of the snout and the top as well. These will NOT be installed.

A SEAL will be installed on the bottom of the snout.



I  placed the seal on the snout in the proper orientation. Squared it up and SEATED it with a proper size pusher (socket) and lightly tapped it into place.





I installed the retaining clip onto the input shaft “PULLY” side as well as a washer. I now inserted the input shaft into the snout from the BOTTOM . By placing the input shaft in from the bottom, you will not “ROLL” the lip of the seal and cause a leak.


Now with the input shaft pushed all the way up into the case…the next thing to do is install the needle bearing that goes under the pinion gear. REMEMBER….DO NOT install a O-RING….The gear oil will not be able to lubricate the input bearings if the O-RING is installed.








Now install the pinion gear and clip….I now “FEEL” the end play of the input shaft assembly…If it feels loose, you can add another shim to tighten it up….if it feels to tight..you can remove the top washer right below the pinion.




That takes care of your INPUT.

Now onto the gears!!!

MAKE SURE you inspect the keys for wear!! Look on the sides and top corners…if they show wear..REPLACE!!!!




Now Check the shift gears….look for nice and square corners,,,if rounded or chipped…replace



Now inspect the output shaft splines…if these are worn or damaged don’t even bother using it…get another one!!!



Now remember…EC sells sprocket adapters for both the FINE and COURSE type shafts.

The 2 sides of the shifting
gears are different. One side is flat and the
other side is cut out. The flat side of the gear
is placed onto the shaft towards the shoulder
of the shaft or towards the shifting keys.



Shoulder



The newer style SHIFTING WASHERS hade a raised radius ring..this raised ring goes toward the shoulder of the shaft.





I then install the shifting collar with the keys. The collar has a wide side and a narrow side



The wide side faces the shoulder on the shaft.

I take the keys and hold them in place with my fat thumb.




I then just slip it onto the shaft, and slide it down a bit so it self retains itself as an assembly.







Now we can start installing the shift gears onto the shaft.

First you install a shifting washer onto the shaft raised ring toward Shoulder on shaft….then install FIRSTGEAR with FLAT SIDE towards the shoulder



Now install another shift washer and SECOND gear







Another washer and THIRD GEAR







Another washer and FOURTH gear







One more of the raised washers and FIFTH gear







Now…you should have no more of those raised washers left…but you will have another washer that looks like this:



This washer has a lip on it that goes toward the shoulder of the shaft.



You now will have a completed output shaft assembly




Now we can assemble the COUNTER SHAFT

Install bevel spur gear and smallest (first gear counter) to largest (fifth gear counter) gears to the splined end of the counter shaft.















We can now install the shaft support bearings onto the COUNTER SHAFT. First put some grease onto each end of the shaft. Now install the bearings.

 









Now place this assembly into the lower case.




Now do the same for the output shifting shaft










Now make sure that the shift keys are not locked into any of the gears. If it is just pull back on the collar to disengage keys from gears. This is now in Neutral.



I now apply a little grease into the shifter pocket in the lower case



I now take the shifter rod assembly and place the pins into the grove on the shifting collar.



Now take the entire assembly and place into the lower case making sure that the shifter rod seats into its pocket.



Make sure that all 4 shaft bearings are KEYED into the case






You can now use your gasket sealer/maker to coat the outside perimeter of the 4 bearings.



Make sure that when you place the shafts back down that the bearings are seated and keyed into location.

You can now make a bead of sealant around the case edge.



Now you can add your choice of gear lube into the lower case. Add enough to cover the top of the input pinion gear.



I then rotated the input shaft by hand to make the gears rotate and check for good lube coverage.




Before putting the top case cover on..I put a little grease onto the shoulder of the shifter rod to help lubricate it in the case.



The top half of the case can now be installed and secured with the 6 mounting bolts.



Now we need to install the shifter detent ball. I put some grease on the ball and insert it into it’s location





install the spring and set screw next.





I tighten up the set screw to about 2 threads into the case. This can be adjusted to personal feel of how the shifter feels




Now we need to vent the case…..

The location of the neutral switch is a ideal location. I



I used a ¼ NPT brass fitting.




Now you need to shorten the threads on these fittings or they will hit the shifter fan and you won’t be changing gears!!



I took off about 3 threads..this gives me just enough clearance from the shifter fan.


I also installed a O-RING and a little RTV onto the threads before installing into case.

105 106 107








On the shifter shaft that protrudes thru the case, I also install a O-RING onto the SHOULDER part  of the shaft.




Here is the final product ready for install!!!!










21
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Engine sleeve question....
« on: January 04, 2008, 10:35:59 am »
How do engine shops resleeve a small air cooled engine like we use???


22
Chassis / MCP regular vs. MINI-LITE
« on: January 01, 2008, 02:36:24 pm »
I was talking to a friend of mine who races karts today. He is getting a new kart for 08' and was cleaning out some misc. parts.   One of the parts that caught my eye was a MINI-LITE rear caliper set-up he has. I can get the whole set-up (caliper, rotor, hub, master and lines) for $80.00.  My question is will a mini-lite caliper have enough stopping force or should I find a MCP regular caliper???

23
Post your Pics! / WHO ARE YOU PAGE
« on: December 29, 2007, 09:20:19 am »
Just wanted to start a simple BIO page on our fellow members whom race. I plan on doing some traveling this upcoming year and like to see whom is out there!!

I'll START!!

NAME: Tom Fox

LOCATION: Brookfield Connecticut

ORGANIZATION: USLMRA

RACE NUMBER: 6

CLASS: BP

AGE (optional): 39





NOTE* One image only per race class, any off topic replies will be deleted/edited.
ONLY actual racers whom race with an organized group need to post all other will be removed... Thanks!

24
Non-Affiliated Races / Lookin for some APRIL 08' races!
« on: December 17, 2007, 08:37:32 pm »
Lookin' thru the kids school calender and they are off school from April 12th thru the 20th 2008.

I was thinking about heading down south for a trip. Just wondering if any groups have anything on the schedule yet.


25
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Pulse Fuel pump-LOCATION
« on: December 05, 2007, 05:00:35 pm »
Hey guys.....redoing my fuel system this evening...I just finished installing an opaque fuel tank. This past season (partial for me) drove me nuts with the BLACK fuel cell. I had to keep topping it off every time I came in because I couldn't see how much fuel was left in the tank!

Anyway...I'm also installing a new fuel pump (from EC-Black Walbro) for the one I had can't be rebuilt due to it being discontinued from B&S.

This new style pump is a different animal as compared to the factory one. It doesn't work to well in the stock location due to port configeration is different. No big deal there...I can make a bracket.

Here is the question before I fab up a bracket.

Are these PULSE PUMPS better suited to be placed as close to the PULSE PORT (valve cover)   and about 5" from CARB or closer to the tank and run a longer PULSE and FUEL LINE?


26
Chassis / ULTA-LIGHT aircraft brakes
« on: December 02, 2007, 12:56:11 pm »
This may be another front brake option:

Stumbled upon these http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/blackmax.php




Fits a 5/8" keyed spindle as well.

For $389.00 not to bad of a price. You could either keep the 6" x6" aluminum wheels and tires or sell them and recover a few buck from the purchase price.


27
Post your Pics! / PALMRA pics from Oct 7th race
« on: October 16, 2007, 07:30:30 pm »
You have to check out these professional pics!!!

http://www.williamsgrove.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=12192

WARNING: HIGH RES!!!

28
Driveline / Peerless 350/400
« on: October 11, 2007, 09:03:20 pm »
Hey guys...Just wondering if anyone had race prepped one of these transmissions other than Don at G-TEAM?

Don did a great job on the one I had him go thru...but with winter approaching, no winter build planned.....Thought I'd see if I could "RACE PREP" one of these gearboxes myself!

Obvious changes would be to do away with bushings and go with needle bearings.
Another item I could see would be to weld the input pinion onto the shaft.
Maybe a new ,larger diameter input shaft that is also a tad bit londer than the original.
Remove reverse.
Vent the case.

Anyone else have any input on these??? THANKS!!




29
Chassis / Seat Height "PREPARED" Racers
« on: October 09, 2007, 11:56:48 am »
I'm just trying to see where I am in relation to other "PREPARED" class mowers.

When I initially built my racer, I set it up for comfort...but comfort also gave me a very high center of gravity. After my first real race laps in the mower, I felt myself being a little TIPPY. I have since lowered my seat mount and removed the thick foam from the seat bottom. This gave me about a 2" overall drop in height. I measured aprox 19" from the ground to the seat bottom (BUTT SIDE). Just for comparison...what types of measurments do you have on your "PREPARED" mowchines? Thanks!!!

30
Tires / TURF PRO- Discontinued
« on: September 17, 2007, 06:38:27 am »
Online this morning and ordering up some spares......The online place that I've purchased from in the past states that the CARLISLE TURF PRO tires are discontinued. I went to the CARLISLE site and they still list them in there tire catalog.

Just thought I'd pass this along just in case there are racers out there who like and run the PRO's. Buy some now before it's to late!!!

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