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Topics - Negrey

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Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Intek twin 49 connecting rod
« on: January 25, 2023, 10:34:34 pm »
Hey, I was searching up the 796209 intek 49 connecting rod and the number is showing as being replaced with 84007297, has anyone else seen this change up?

Other Engines / Identify new clone engines
« on: March 23, 2022, 05:19:05 pm »

Driveline / Transaxle gearing
« on: March 25, 2020, 12:17:28 am »
Gearing options when using a transaxle, Right now I'm setup with a near 1-2 ratio input and 12-1 in top gear to get a total ratio of 6-1. I found another transaxle that had top gear 6-1, (I'm pretty sure) So to achieve the same crank to axle ratio I can go 1-1 on pulleys, Other than the two things that came to mind of benefit, that I can run a significantly smaller engine pulley and my transaxle input will not be over driven.

Is there anything else to be gained from this gearing? any feel differences? any reasons why the overdrive is a better option?


Briggs OHV & Vanguard / AVS Piston
« on: January 28, 2020, 01:34:01 pm »
Would someone be able to verify part numbers for me?
The newest 31 avs piston is 594539 correct?

Which 0.020 ring set is best for the 594539 piston: 792649 or 594438

I am piecing an engine together and don't have a date tag to go by. Thanks for the help

Briggs Flathead / Opposed fuel pump
« on: August 23, 2019, 10:19:31 am »
Is it a better choice to modify the stock opposed carburetor for a separate fuel pump than use the original fuel pump in a racing mower? Thanks

Briggs Flathead / 214524 Piston
« on: February 11, 2019, 06:13:56 pm »
Hey, wondering if anyone can help with getting rings for this piston. Stamped on it is 214524 and it came from engine 28T707 1154-E1 9902232D, it is an I/C and STD bore, is it a revision of the 696397 piston? I can post pictures if that will help. Thanks!!

Kohler Engines / 44CID Twin Denso Starter
« on: November 04, 2017, 03:35:12 pm »
Hey does anyone have the part number for the high torque denso starter to be used on a Command Twin with ARC flywheel?
Greatly appreciated!

Chassis / Supermod Steering Tie Rod
« on: June 06, 2017, 02:54:51 pm »
I understand to achieve proper ackerman you must have both your tie rods on the same pivot point and on a downhill angle to your steering arm tabs. From most of the pictures I see on the forum it looks like the tabs are an S shape or maybe offset is a better description, towards the middle of the machine by about the width of the steering arm tab (looks like 1” ?) I know with rear steer tabs are supposed to follow a line from kingpin to center of rear axle, and if two tie rod style the tie rod ends will be mounted beside each other on the center pivot. With front steer they need to be outside your kingpins and adjustable ackerman in only one direction by mounting your tie rod in a different hole on your steering arm. On a mower with Supermod style front steer is steering arm tab placement off the steering knuckles crucial? Or is the single pivot with downward angle all that matters to achieve ackerman? I feel like I've read almost every post there is but there is always so much other information and learning to be done on this forum! ;)

Then the old geometry classes kicked in and nailed it the first time. Steering from the front.

Pivot point.

Full left turn.

And full right turn.

Well Me and Jake did a bit more. I been building in my head the whole time its been sitting and I ain't been doing nothing. So this didn't take very long at all to do. I already did it several times in my head. Anyhow the steering is done 1/4 turn full lock both ways and very smooth and easy to turn. Below are some pictures of the steering.


Post your Pics! / Craftsman from BC
« on: November 02, 2014, 11:29:25 pm »
Thought I'd post up some pictures of my mower! Its been built and rebuilt over 8 years now. Started out doing the local annual race for a few years. Then that was cancelled and I got busy doing other things, Had a year or two off then this year I did two races. Rebuilt my front axle after the first and then took 1st in B Main in the second! With the NOLMRC up here in BC. Handles so much better now it feels like it has more power! Had a blast, and right back into it now! Planning to build another two over the winter, one for myself and one for my brother. Whatcha think?  ;)

18hp Briggs stock, 900 Series Peerless.

Driveline / Building a new clutch
« on: July 08, 2013, 01:36:26 am »
Hey Guys,

So I'm building a new clutch for my mower, started with just a re-gearing and new belt but when I found my alignment was way out I decided to tear everything out and start from scratch. I want to build a two pulley clutch, I have Cast pulleys w/sheaves because that's all I have easy access too, about 8" on my engine and 4.25" or so on my trans. My belt is a couple inches bigger than what I calculated out for it, but my issue is, when I have no clutch at all, just my loose belt and pulleys it won't just sit there and slip, like it grabs on my transaxle pulley and will want to try take off if in gear. The belt is new, my trans pulley is new, engine pulley has been raced with before. Do I just need to break everything in and then it will work good? It's like I need a more slippery trans pulley. Or am I stressing myself out and it wont work until I have those pieces on the edge of my clutch plate that press against the belt when it's disengaged to keep it from moving? if that makes sense, just those little tabs.


Briggs OHV & Vanguard / 18hp Valve Spring Retainers
« on: May 29, 2011, 10:53:10 pm »

I have a 18hp OHV Briggs and Stratton, Single Cyl. Out of the box stock, and I heard it's a good idea to replace the valve spring retainers so I don't drop a valve, no governor, but is it necessary to replace them if its a stock engine? Just wondering, and if so should I go with dual springs and that stuff too?

Sorry if I'm asking such a rookie question, I'm just getting back into racing and don't wanna get left behind!


Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Dual Springs for a 18hp Intek
« on: June 29, 2007, 01:43:42 pm »
Hey Guys,
I bought this 18 hp and have been reading and found that the springs and retainers are weak and can drop valves, and i do not want to do that! So i have read that EC can get me new springs and retainers, but in order to run the dual springs, What is meant by
some work is involved on the head
is the work shaving the block so the springs fit in or ......?
Below are some pictures of my engine


Chassis / Building an L-Spindle Front Axle
« on: May 02, 2007, 09:33:26 pm »
Hey guys,
Our rules say "NO go-kart spindles, L type spindles only" minimum 5" ground clearance.I believe that L spindles are a thing of the past in the USLMRA because of the new IMOW rules. I've have the suggested Camber and Caster settings, But I was wondering if there are any other things to consider when building an L-Spindle front axle? I remember the Old Acme Imow Axle and it doesn't look like it would be 5" ground clearance with 15x6.00/6 tires. And my mower is like MOWMAN_RACER's except it had a 12hp in it, but i doubt there is much of a difference.

My idea is to do the beam of the front axle somthing like:   \________/   (but not with that extreme of angles)                                                                                                                  \___________/


Driveline / Turning down ends for Axle
« on: March 28, 2007, 07:01:11 pm »
Hey Guys,
For my rear axle It is 1" by 36" long, and the ends have to turned down to 3/4" to accept my tires.
My question is, the lathe in the shop at school, with a 3 jaw chuck is 15 thousandths out of round,
So is that too much? will I have any big problems with my axle being 15 thou out of round? Or should i just go for it?


Chassis / Opening Mid-Engine Mower Hoods
« on: March 10, 2007, 05:56:08 pm »
One question I have yet to find a definite answer for is, How do the hoods on Huffy's and other Mid-Engine mowers open? or they don't?

Because, like from an accessibility point of view shouldn't you be able to pop your hood? or to open it must you take out your steering column,

Thanks Guys,

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