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Topics - tgames64

Pages: [1] 2
1
Coffee Shop / Helmet Sizing
« on: March 03, 2013, 04:32:49 pm »
This is a little off the lawnmower subject but related in a way...
I have to purchase an auto racing helmet since my DOT helmet I use for lawnmower racing does not meet SCCA rules.
We don't have any places around here that sell that type of helmet so I can go try it on, I'll have to order online. I already know what size helmet I need but my question is this. I also have to where a fire-rated Balaclava under it and I don't know how much I need to add to the helmet size for that... Anyone been there done that?

2
Coffee Shop / The 70's
« on: August 03, 2012, 04:04:32 pm »
Ahhhhhh, the good ole days. I sure had plenty of these moments!

Found this on Facebook and it brought back memories, I wanted to share...


                           

3
Post your Pics! / '78 WIZARD
« on: February 23, 2012, 07:23:23 am »
OK, finally got a few pics up of the WIZARD I built as promised. I went away from the race look to give it more of a retro look. I ride in parades often and the look to me still shows a race mower but has that factory look to it as well. The old timers get a kick out of it.

This is a budget build and customized for me. I made my own front end and used a lot of used parts I had from previous racers including an old bent up steering wheel I hammered back to shape and painted.I stretched the wheelbase out to 42" because it is COMFORTABLE to me there. I don't like the short wheelbases. I am 6'1 and have a bad back and my old F/X was simply to little for me to run more then 10 laps without back spasms making come off the track. I run this on a small track in South Georgia and use pretty much a stock engine. It's a Briggs 19 and the only things I have done to it is porting~polishing, flowed LMT56 carb, and a billet flywheel as per USLMRA rules.   I built this mower for about $450.00 and $250.00 of that was the flywheel. It is 4" off the ground, 38" from sidewall to sidewall, and I have never been on a mower that was so comfortable...

Here's a link to view the pics... I'm to lazy to post them on here.
:worried:

http://s162.photobucket.com/profile/tgames64

BTW,, Real men aren't afraid to run Pink pre-filters.... ;)

4
Briggs Flathead / 8 hp Crankshaft
« on: November 23, 2011, 10:25:22 am »
I don't have the crankshaft here to measure it but I wanted to get a pulley before the stores closed.

If I remember right the PTO side of the shaft on a model 191707 is 1" and then steps down to 7/8". Is that correct?

5
USLMRA Races / Quick Rule Question
« on: September 01, 2011, 01:49:35 pm »
I have read through the rules and don't see where you must have a on-board battery. So the racer can be remotely started, jumped off, etc...
Am I correct in this assumption or have I missed a rule?


6
Briggs Flathead / Lapping or not....
« on: March 16, 2011, 12:04:02 pm »
I have always lapped my flywheels since my brother taught me to do so...
I was just doing some reading online and found a couple interesting quotes...
The first is the correct procedure, according to this individual and is the way I have been doing it as well.
The second is another quote that does not recommend lapping and he makes some good points as to why not.
                                                     What do you think ??


1)
Quote
Grab 2 tubes of valve grinding (or lapping) compound at the parts store - 1 coarse, 1 fine.

Clean the end of the crank and inside the flywheel with carb cleaner until it is spotless.

Make something to hold the clutch end of the crank - I used an old Noram clutch hub, and later on a cheap pulley with a bar welded on it so I didn't have to hold it.

Smear some coarse compound on the crank and slide the flywheel on. Grab hold of the clutch end of the crank. While pressing lightly on the flywheel, move it back and forth in a rocking motion about 1/2 turn each way.
Do that for a few minutes, until your hand starts to ache.
Pull the flywheel off and smear some more compound on it. Repeat.

Now clean the end of the crank and inside the flywheel with carb cleaner until it is spotless. Look for dull or shiny spots, any signs that the surfaces are not even. You're looking for high spots on either surface.

Once the worst of them are gone, or your hand aches too much to keep going, start over with fine lapping compound. Keep going until you think you need carpal surgery. Again, Clean the end of the crank and inside the flywheel with carb cleaner until it is spotless. Now clean it again. Clean it some more, your hand still hurts.

Remove all traces of lapping compound from anything even close to the motor or flywheel. Now go wash your hands and clean it all again. You do not want that stuff inside your motor or Bad Things(tm) will happen.

A drop or 2 of Loctite on the crank, spin it a little and set your timing. (You did make timing marks before you started, right? Good.)

Torque the flywheel down using your preferred method and wait at least 10-15 minutes for the Loctite to set. Preferably overnight.

While waiting for the Loctite to set up, clean up any more lapping compound you may have missed.

Those are the steps. Now for some opinions & experience.

I use Red Loctite, and not the cheap stuff, and a lot more than 2 drops. It takes a propane torch to remove my flywheels, but they didn't lose timing ever.

I have rigged a drill to spin the flywheel, it didn't seem to do as good a job, so I went back the hand method.

I have gotten lapping compound inside a motor. Once. Lost everything - block, bearings, crank, rod, piston, valves & guides, cam, lifters, all of it. In less than 10 minutes of run time. Over $1600.00 in parts & machine work. You do not want that stuff inside your motor or Bad Things(tm) will happen.

Stocker cast iron flywheels fit with the precision of 2 bricks laying against each other. It's going to be a long night if you want it right. Billet aluminium are much easier, but that's no reason to slack off or settle for "close enough". The flywheel always jumps time at the the racetrack, never in the garage when you have 2-3 days to fix it.

2)
Quote
question is, how necessary is this procedure?

Not only is it not necessary but it could damage the fit.

This is what machinist call an 'interference fit'

When the flywheel is tightened down properly the bolt pulls the flywheel at least another .100" into the taper of the crank snout.

If you just hold the flywheel on the taper of the crank, turning it with lapping compound you are not even in the area the flywheel will end up on after it is torque down. Then when you do torque it down now you have created less of an interference fit, maybe even a valley and peak so the flywheel does not sit flat on the taper.

You should remove all burrs from the keyway, crank taper and flywheel taper, also make sure it is clean and free of rust/corrosion. I like to use marine never seize in the green can.

Look at the instructions and warranty. Ever wonder why they void the warranty if you lap their flywheels?

7
Post your Pics! / MOVED: pulleys
« on: January 28, 2010, 12:45:24 pm »
Moved to the Coffee Shop.

8
How bout this drivers the ones that run our Memorial Day Race will be invited to run a race later this year NO ENTRY FEES just insurance.
This will be a race with special stipulations all of which SAFETY is NUMBER ONE !!!!!All Bounty & Money races will be a no touch the
leader race,oh yea what about the rest of us well all I will say is NO RUFF driving will be tolerated,there will a total of 12 track officials, 4 being off duty police officers with radios watching for ruff driving.This track is plenty big to pass in the turns & or strait of ways.
Your arm band from our Memorial Day Race will be your invitation to this race,ya loose it no racing.The purse will start at $5000.00 yes I said $5000.00 & ya know its gone grow.I'm gone prove we can run for a purse safely & have fun doing it.When lawn mower racing started the drivers were running stock mowers compared to what we got now and look at the Billet parts avalible to us now,it just ain't rite not to get nothing in return.Most of us have more in a carb. than drivers 10 or 15 years ago had in there mower.We don't have rich sponsors so where we gone recoop the fortune we got in our mowers.This is just a little extra I'm throwing in the pot for the drivers that support us & mower racing in general.The date for this race will be announced in plenty of time to make plans.I'll check on other dates & try not to make it an inconvience to anyone.Remember Invitational only, your armband may be priceless.
REMEMBER EVERYONE IS WELCOME May 23rd & 24th Memorial Day Weekend Race. I-75 exit 149 Byron,Ga. the place to be.Gates open at 10am.

Again ALL ARE WELCOME.The tack is located  at I-75 exit 149 1/4 west of interstate,Byron,Ga.Camping is allowed at
track plus theres a campground 1/2 mile down the street.Our exit is loaded with anything ya might need chain resturants,motels,
grocery stores,dealerships,strip malls for the ladies,parts stores,mower shops & gas stations.Most all of these are with in walking distance of the track.We'll also have vendors at the track.Your welcome to come as early as Friday & spend the weekend with us.
This is one ya don't want to miss drivers.   

For Mow info call me at 478-737-1250 or Ted Ames at 229-563-8283

Here are some pics of track 80 per cent complete.     http://southernoutlaws.homestead.com/TheNewByronGaTrack.html
Notice the width of the track so far drivers,it gets better.

This topic was posted on behalf of Hitch with his permission
I'm getting kinda excited about this one, I hope you are to!


9
Post Your Video / Great Story from NC
« on: July 29, 2008, 05:55:43 am »
We need more coverage like this for the sport...

I think this was a AMRA event, congrads guys.
The video has a small advertisement in front of it and then a good news story.

http://cosmos.bcst.yahoo.com/up/player/popup/?rn=4226712&cl=9020640&src=news

10
Briggs Flathead / MOVED: 8hp briggs
« on: March 14, 2008, 08:16:00 pm »
This topic has been moved to (For Sale - Mower Engines & Parts)

11
Driveline / R.A.G.B.
« on: September 14, 2007, 08:52:58 pm »
Has anyone tried to substitute a peerless 700 series tranny for a RAGB in the F/X or ProMod class with any success?

12
Driveline / Brake Setup
« on: April 29, 2007, 11:36:12 am »
I have an S/P class mower that I use a hand control throttle, left side clutch pedal, and right side brake pedal.This what I consider the typical application.I wanted to know if anyone has experimented with a brake control on the steering wheel at maybe 10 O'Clock and throttle at the typical 2 O'Clock position.

I am not looking for an advantage but instead trying to run the corners and use braking to help me steer.I have some nerve problems in my ankles and feet.In a normal vehicle it is not an issue as I sit up high and can stretch out.However, on these mowers I find my self in an awkward riding position and with my long legs it makes braking a little difficult at times.I simply don't have good responce out of my feet without locking them down.I need that brake to help me steer and setup corners and I'm late on it and it really is a problem.

13
Post your Pics! / Walk the Walk.....
« on: March 19, 2007, 01:13:59 pm »
Well I have been doing a lot of talking on here and thought I would share my latest creation to show you I do walk the walk...
I am sorry I don't have build pics but I changed things so many times during the build I could not possibly post them all.

I race 2 classes and these are my twins.......


These next three are my newest creation and I raced it for the first time last Saturday and it is going to take some getting used to but Don has made some awesome power for this beast.I took home a third place and that was because of driver error,the mower was GREAT!




A lot of work and a few bucks but a smile that will last forever.......

14
Briggs Flathead / Starting Fluid
« on: February 16, 2007, 11:58:05 am »
I am speaking for a G-team Briggs 31. Motor runs great and after it warms up some it starts very easy without applying any gas or having to use a choke, actually there is no choke on it.
I am looking for a better way to start it cold.I spend several minutes and many attempts to get this beast started which is a lot of extra wear on an expensive flywheel and starter not to mention the battery drain.The motor turns over fairly easy so I don't have a compression problem.

My first thought was to remove the air filter and spray a bit of starting fluid into the carb and see if this will help.I don't know if this fluid is suitable for these small engines.I am also looking for other ideas you might have. :dunno:

I am in a warmer climate, about 60-75 degrees when attempting this.

15
Briggs Flathead / Magneto question
« on: December 03, 2006, 08:35:38 am »
On the single cylinder engines that have been modified.Like a 31cu from Ec or g-team, with all the modifications and higher compression, special carbs, etc...
Is a stock coil as came with the original motor good enough or should adifferent coil be used??

Ted

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