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Topics - TomC

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1
Briggs Flathead / New "long" ARC rod for the Model 28
« on: May 18, 2006, 03:01:35 pm »
Part number 6281

This new rod is exactly like our regular model 28 rod, but we made it .050" longer to allow you to cut the dish off the top of the 31cu.in. piston and get more compression.

Call us at 800-521-3560 to order.

Tom Cole
ARC Racing

2
Tires / TIRE GROWTH
« on: November 05, 2005, 11:35:38 am »
*TIRE GROWTH*
Post by alleight on Aug 24, 2005, 7:20pm


If you over inflate your tires and leave them in the sun will they grow
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: TIRE GROWTH*
Post by joep808 on Aug 24, 2005, 11:21pm


Yes they will. If you are thining IMOW, remember you have a tire
pressure rule. Over inflating them and them running the legal pressure
might cause more handling probelms.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: TIRE GROWTH*
Post by alleight on Aug 25, 2005, 2:54pm


Yep tire psi for all classes is 15, I'm thinking the larger the tire the
more air you need to reach the 15 psi so it should even out.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: TIRE GROWTH*
Post by George Herrin on Sept 26, 2005, 7:34am


All governed classes is 15 psi max. And you will be amazed at how little
difference there is between sizes. It really evened up the field. Tech
does their research when it comes to this stuff.
george
------------------------------------------------------------------------

3
Tires / wheels and tires???
« on: November 05, 2005, 11:33:42 am »
wheels and tires???
Post by mtdmaniac on Aug 20, 2005, 9:39pm


im new to mower racing, and i have been working on my mtd, turning it into a racer. it goes approx. 20-30 mph.

i need new wheels, and i see that a lot of racers use some kind of go kart wheels. where can i get ones that will fit the rear transaxle, which is completely stock. ??? thanks for the responses, its urgent

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Re: wheels and tires???
Post by George Herrin on Aug 20, 2005, 11:55pm


I don't know of any aftermarket wheels available for the stock transaxle.
George

4
Tires / Prepping Tires
« on: November 05, 2005, 11:30:56 am »
*Prepping Tires*
Post by Tom on May 18, 2005, 8:50am


Without giving away secrets, what sort of prepping do you guys do to
your tires? Is it allowed? I have found one tire prep that is applied to
the outside of the tires and really conditions the tire. It is called
Hot Lap II. It won't burn up your tires, it just makes them more pliable
so they hook up better.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Prepping Tires*
Post by George Herrin on May 18, 2005, 2:20pm


I personally havn't used anything on my tires, nothing in the rules says
we cannot. The FX class uses kart tires and preps may work better on
those. Then again it may do wonders for a mower tire also. my bid=ggest
thing is deflating after a race to keep the tire from growing setting in
a hot trailer between races.
George

PS the burris K-21 grooved leak down so I don't have to worry bought
them. Just need to check pressures between heat and feature.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Prepping Tires*
Post by H2Mow on May 18, 2005, 7:37pm


Tom,

I have heard some of the local kart guys using a mix of paint thinners
to make their own softener... I can't remember the exact names but seems
to me it was tylene and propolene thinners... Mix 50-50 and add a little
ATF fluild to help the tires absorb before the thinner evaporates. One
other trick that I have done is to take a "4 grinder and ruff up or
grind alittle off the suface. It will make the tires ruff and bite in
alittle more. It does not take much just ruff it up. :D
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Prepping Tires*
Post by H2Mow on May 23, 2005, 11:02pm


I found out the correct thinners it is tylene and xylene. You can
purchase these from any or most hardware stores.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Prepping Tires*
Post by Squidd on May 23, 2005, 11:11pm


You remember the old turpintine and salicylic acid (oil of wintergreen)
from the RC days don't you...? ;)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Prepping Tires*
Post by Tom on Jun 7, 2005, 8:59am


Wintergreen is VERY aggressive as a softener but not really a quick
prep. I did not know what the chemical was til now.
Xylene, Tolulene and ATF is a softener that works faster.
Xylene wiped on a clean and dry tire improves the tire's grip, and also
deep cleans the tire before applying other preps.
We use a cloth wrap around the tire called "Hotsox", soaked with xylene
and then wrapped with tire warmers to cook in the xylene. VERY
aggressive softener.
Goat Pee is an agressive softener. It is a yellow smelly liquid called
methal-napthalene aka moth balls.
High flash mineral spirits or charcoal lighter is a good tire
conditioner, as well as WD-40. Both are used instead of ATF to help
preps like xylene sit on the tire longer before evaporation. But they
don't let it sit as long as ATF. ATF therefore gets it deeper.
Diesel Fuel is a slow soak softener, that seems to maintain the tire's
strength better than Goat or Wintergreen.

We have some other chemicals from Pro-Blend on our website that have
various effects, but are better than these home brews. I especially like
Hotlap II, and their tire cleaner.

All of these chemicals are dangerous to your health, flamable, and or
explosive. Wear nitril gloves, don't breathe the fumes, and keep them
away from kids, pets, etc. I have left out the really nasty stuff that
people use.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Prepping Tires*
Post by Squidd on Jun 7, 2005, 8:06pm


So...
How exactly do you train the Goat to Pee on your tires... :o

Gotta be easier than trying to get it to Pee in a bottle... :P

------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Prepping Tires*
Post by Tom on Jun 14, 2005, 1:23pm


:D
------------------------------------------------------------------------

5
Tires / Rollout
« on: November 05, 2005, 11:25:46 am »
*Rollout *
Post by Squidd on May 30, 2005, 4:40pm


In IMOW, we all run the same gear ratio (9:1) and the motors are
goverened (3650) ...

So it seems the only "advantage" in speed is going to come from rollout
or the circumfrence of the tire...

Now the rules states 18x9.5x8 is the maximum tire that can be run, but
not all tires (even with the same "size" ) are the same...

So, before I go out and buy 10 different tires blow them up and measure
their circumference...

Can anyone point me in the direction of the "Tallest" 18x9.5x8...or
18x8.5x8...??
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Rollout *
Post by Squidd on May 31, 2005, 6:58am


9:1 is 9 engine crank shaft revolutions to 1 axel revolution...

The one axle revolution (or "tire" revolution) determines how "far"
the maching moves..as all the machines are turning the same rpms the
the tire that goes "farthest" per rev will be "fastest"...

So a 17" tall tire will roll about 53.4" inches per rev... a 17.5"
tall tire will move almost 55"...at 405.5 revs per minute (3650/9)
the 17.5" tire will be 54' ahead or the smaller tire machine..

So...What's the "tallest" 18x9.5x8 tire out there...???

------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Rollout *
Post by George Herrin on May 31, 2005, 8:34am


Trail and error. Kenda's are pretty consistant as far as bigger. Keep in
mind a tire inflation rule is coming. So over inflating will stop. Too
many tires explodeing.
George
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Rollout *
Post by Squidd on May 31, 2005, 7:44pm

Stopped at the local mower repair shop...Measured 8-10 different tires
mounted on a varity of rims (no Kendas though)...

And there is a difference...up to an inch and a half on different
brands/designs...

Have a pretty good idea where I'm going now, but will still need to
check the Kenda line to confirm...
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Rollout *
Post by Squidd on Jun 8, 2005, 7:56pm



*May 31, 2005, 8:34am George Herrin
Quote
Keep in mind a tire inflation rule is coming. So over inflating will
stop. Too many tires explodeing.



I see that's come to pass...

All the mower reason to find the "tallest" carcasses out there...
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Rollout *
Post by George Herrin on Jun 8, 2005, 9:41pm


Yes it has come to pass. I had thought it would have been sooner than
later but either way it makes things a bit safer. It will also make
things more equal on the track we are betting on too!!!!
George
------------------------------------------------------------------------

6
Tires / Tire patterns
« on: November 05, 2005, 11:22:24 am »
*Tire patterns*
Post by Squidd on May 13, 2005, 9:27pm


Front and rear...

Turf Saver rear....but "Rib" or Turf Saver front...??

Why..?
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Tire patterns*
Post by George Herrin on May 14, 2005, 2:08am


clarify what you are asking, I don't understand what exactly you want to
know.
George
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Tire patterns*
Post by Squidd on May 14, 2005, 7:07am


Sorry... :-[

From what I've been reading, "Turf Saver" tires are the reccomended tire
"pattern" for the rear...

True or False...?

Secondly...My mower came with straight "Rib" tires on the front...are
these any good, or should I run out and get some 6" Turf savers" for the
front...??
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Tire patterns*
Post by George Herrin on May 14, 2005, 8:06am


Depending on class, the turf saver is a good tire and cheap its okay in
SP and I don't like it in BP to me this is a loose tire it doesn't get
alot of forward traction. Imow it doesn't really matter since it isn't a
high hp machine. I personally like the turf master by carlisle for the
front no matter what the class. It is a high traction tire and we ride
ill handling machines designed to do 8mph. So I really like the turf
master up front, they work well on rims from 5" wide to 7.25 wide. your
choice. Sp I prefer the turf pro by carlisle for the year and BP I
prefer the turf master for the rear,
These are again just my opinions, tires are really a personal
preferance. The rib tires I can tell you will not get any traction. So I
would for sure find something else for the front.
George
------------------------------------------------------------------------

7
Driveline / Chain Drive Trans?
« on: November 05, 2005, 11:19:19 am »
*Chain Drive Trans?*
Post by nico on Oct 28, 2005, 10:17am


I am looking for a trans to use with a cart axle, but am having little
luck. These seem scarce in my area... What part numbers or model numbers
should I be looking for? What applications were these units originally
available in?. I have found the Spicer 37-H trans picuted below pretty
cheap. Are they of any value for a racing appilication?

<http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a274/nico250/Trans.jpg>

------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Chain Drive Trans?*
Post by George Herrin on Oct 28, 2005, 1:32pm


not really they are very weak, you need to look on old comercial walk
behind mowers or older rear engine mowers, the older smaller mowers many
were equipped with transmissions. You are looking for peerless 700
series 3,4, or 5 speeds meaning the part number will be a 700 number or
be a 700-xxx type number. Or some use the peerless 3 speed H pattern
models 350 or 400 series. I prefer the 700 series though.
George
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Chain Drive Trans?*
Post by nico on Oct 28, 2005, 4:43pm


Thanks, the rear engine mowers seem to be very plentiful in this area...
I'll have to start looking under some of them. I rarely see a commercial
walk behind model.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Chain Drive Trans?*
Post by George Herrin on Oct 28, 2005, 9:23pm


You are welcome.
George
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Chain Drive Trans?*
Post by mowerracer313 on Oct 28, 2005, 11:06pm


hey george how do tell if its a 700 if the tag is gone
is there any differences in castings or are all 5 speed peerless trans 700's

thanks brian
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Chain Drive Trans?*
Post by George Herrin on Oct 28, 2005, 11:57pm


most are there are some 500 series that are dang near identical but only
personally saw one, if its a peerless and its a 5 speed tranny I would
bet the bank its a 700 series
George
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Chain Drive Trans?*
Post by mowerracer313 on Oct 29, 2005, 9:33am


thanks much george


brian
------------------------------------------------------------------------

8
Driveline / Gearing Scenarios and its Effect on Torque
« on: November 05, 2005, 11:17:12 am »
*Gearing Scenarios and its Effect on Torque*
Post by Squidd on Sept 14, 2005, 10:58pm


Let's just say, for discussion sake (and ease of math) that I want to
run a 6:1 final drive on my machine...

I'm running a belt from engine to trans(700) and then gear to axle

Example:
1. Run 1:1 on pulleys from engine to trans, then 3:1 thru trans and then
2:1 to axel...or

2. Run 1:1 engine to trans, 2:1 thru trans and then 3:1 to axel

3. 1.5:1. on pulleys to trans, 2:1 thru trans and then 2:1 to axel

4 Or some other combination of gearing thru the pulleys/trans/sprockets

#1 (or something similar)seems to be the most popular (from what I've
seen), but is there any reason or advantage to gearing that way...?
Wouldn't #2 (spinning tyranny faster/lower gearing to axel) allow a
"harder pull" from the corner...Both top speeds should be the same..??
Would that be too hard on the tyranny...?

Which example would give the best transference of rpm...of torque...???

Final question related to first...In order to get 2:1 from sprockets
(tranny to axel) You could go 27/54 or a 20/40...Would there be any
advantage to either setup, considering the ratio is the same..??
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Gearing Scenarios and its Effect on Torque*
Post by George Herrin on Sept 15, 2005, 7:51pm


Well your way of putting it simply confuses me, I race a 700 series, and
I race in third, Used it on my sp and bp and on both I use a 8 on motor
and 5 on tranny, s/p I ran a 15 on tranny to a 50 th on axle. End result
was 6.5 to 1 from engine to tires. BP I ran a 12 th to a 46 on axle.
Hope this helps.
George
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Gearing Scenarios and its Effect on Torque*
Post by Squidd on Sept 15, 2005, 11:17pm


Sorry for the confusion :-[,

But you did just confirmed a theory I was working towards..ie:
overdriving the trans and making it up in the sprockets allowing less
strain on the output shaft of the trans...

Running 8 and 5 engine to trans (or 1.6:1) and then 3:1 thru the trans
(third grear) and then a 3.3 or 3.6 :1 in the sprockets should allow the
tranny to "spin up" and transfer power to wheels with less loading
(smaller front sprocket)...

That's almost the same conclusion I came up with on the USLMRA site and
Kenton confirmed as well...
(see quote below)

Thank you for sharing what seems to be "top secret" information, in some
circles...


Quote
That narrows it down, tranny wise, but then is there an advantage in
overdriving the trans from the engine, say 1.5:1 or 1.25:1 and still
running a 6:1 final by dropping the sprockets to say a 2.5:1...

The tranny would be spinning up faster, but the load on the output
would be less (smaller drive sproket)...Would any advantage be
offset by the losses from the engine torque from overdriving the
trans..??

IE: Has anyone had success overdriving the engine to trans pullys
(making it up in the sprockets), or ..


------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Gearing Scenarios and its Effect on Torque*
Post by George Herrin on Sept 19, 2005, 2:20pm


No problem and was glad to meet you in Prentice. Good to put faces with
names. And you will find I have very few Top Secrets. George
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Gearing Scenarios and its Effect on Torque*
Post by grindleracing19 on Oct 9, 2005, 11:11pm


im running and honda 11 horse and i run 12 on the motor back to jack
shaft and from jack shaft back to axle i run a 11/69 and i think my
final ratieo is like 6.27 short track up here in maine have to have alot
of low end is the tracks down u guys way alot longer ?
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Gearing Scenarios and its Effect on Torque*
Post by Squidd on Oct 10, 2005, 10:26pm


If your final is 6.27 then your right about where we're talking here
(6.0 and 6.5)...

I haven't "measured" a track (yet), but heard the guys talking 1/8 mile
or 600'-650' "racing line" ..Of course the track is wider and longer on
the outside line and narrower and shorter on the inside...and then throw
in the occasional "chicane" and the need to slow down and turn right...

This coming season I plan on walking the tracks with a "measuring wheel"
on the running line, and then factor in the radius of the turns (how
"tight" they are) and see how that relates to the preferred gearing for
any given track...

Shouldn't take much to come up with a data base and simple formula
(after a half dozen tracks or so) to be able to dial in the correct
gearing for any given track...

Course you'd still have to deal with the inconsistency's of the running
surface and steering traction..

------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Gearing Scenarios and its Effect on Torque*
Post by racingjason on Oct 23, 2005, 10:34pm


Hey!! ? George do you have a part # for the 12 and 15 sprocket thanks.
Racing Jason.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Gearing Scenarios and its Effect on Torque*
Post by Squidd on Oct 24, 2005, 5:37am


12 tooth: 786095 and 15 tooth: 786111
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Gearing Scenarios and its Effect on Torque*
Post by racingjason on Oct 24, 2005, 7:27pm


Hey! thanks for the info on the part # squidd. racing jason
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Gearing Scenarios and its Effect on Torque*
Post by Squidd on Oct 24, 2005, 9:04pm


No Prob..Got it from George awhile back...
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Gearing Scenarios and its Effect on Torque*
Post by George Herrin on Oct 24, 2005, 10:45pm


Thanks Squidd, preciate the help there. I don't always get to check my
emails till late evenings.
George
------------------------------------------------------------------------

9
Driveline / Clutch
« on: November 05, 2005, 11:13:40 am »
*Clutch*
Post by Red Horse Racing on Oct 15, 2005, 8:19pm


Finally got a little preliminary work done on heck Horse. Since these
are our first racers, and we'd rather live than win, at least for now,
we're increasing the speed in stages.

I changed out the pulleys to a pair of 4.5" pulleys for a one to one
drive between engine and transaxle. (it's what I had on hand) This
slightly more than doubled the speed. Thing is, although the belt gets
plenty loose, and I have all the pins for guiding the belt relocated to
approximately their orginal positions in relation to the pulleys, there
is no clutching action.

Dang thing slipped right into gear though, just before I crashed into
the workbench. LOL

My current plan is to add a second idler, a V-style, creating a double
pulley on the clutch arm. With a corresponding increase in belt length.
I'm hoping this cures the problem.

Any additional thoughts?

Oh, and yes, having no clutch did NOT stop us from zipping up and down
the road a few times! After the clutch works, I suppose we should try to
get the brakes operational. LOL

Stages my friends, stages. You won't see us on the track until the final
stages though, up to speed, operating clutch and GOOD brakes!

Dale, in Michigan
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Clutch*
Post by Squidd on Oct 15, 2005, 9:41pm



Quote
Oh, and yes, having no clutch did NOT stop us from zipping up and down
the road a few times! After the clutch works, I suppose we should try to
get the brakes operational. LOL




First test run is always a blast... ;D

Almost afraid to ask about the steering... :o
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Clutch*
Post by moweracer227 on Oct 15, 2005, 10:20pm


Dale,

Where are you located in Central Michigan. I am also from this area.

Don aka
Moweracer227
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Clutch*
Post by Red Horse Racing on Oct 16, 2005, 3:42am


Steering? Glad you asked! Right now the only changes made have been the
pulleys, moved throttle to steering wheel, and removal of various deck
lift and engagement hardware. Steering is bone stock with just enough
play to make 12mph fun.

Steering will eventually be direct steer, with a setup similiar to what
you're doing in your AP build thread. Being three steps behind you is
saving me a lot of headaches, I can see that. Don't think it's going
unappreciated!

Once heck Horse has a working clutch, she'll be put on a back burner, a
practice ride you might say. Nice and high, kinda narrow, lots of demand
put on driving. Something to play on while learning!!! Pony Express will
then step up the plate, or workbench, and she'll be done as a frame up
project, custom front axle (I've got most of the parts), a little
tweaking in a tired old 28CID Briggs, etc. I'd like to run a
transmission to chain drive setup, but so far everything we've hauled
home for free, or close to it, has transaxles in them. So I suppose
we'll just remove the reversing chain, add seals, and switch to oil in
them. With several laying around now, we can blow up a couple before it
becomes a hardship. LOL

Dale, close to Harrison, Michigan
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Clutch*
Post by Squidd on Oct 16, 2005, 9:48am


I'v found the "H" pattern 600s to be pretty bulit proof, after going
thru a couple 5 speeds...

And way less rolling resistance.. ;)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Clutch*
Post by moweracer227 on Oct 16, 2005, 8:58pm


Dale

I am from Clare, If you want a 4 speed tranny for your other project
(Pony Express) I have one I will give ya. Don't use them. I use the 5
speed Peerless 700 trans. The 4-speed is a model 500 Peerless, same as a
5 just 4 speeds.

Don
------------------------------------------------------------------------

10
Driveline / jackshafts
« on: November 05, 2005, 11:10:41 am »
*jackshafts*
Post by mowmanscott on Sept 23, 2005, 7:06am


Does anyone know a good jackshaft set up. what I'm looking for is pully
sizes for engine to shaft and shaft to transaxel I'm looking for power
and speed? this is going to be for a twin 18-20 hp stock engine. Thank
you Scott
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: jackshafts*
Post by HotRodLawnTractor on Oct 1, 2005, 1:15am


Ok. I have a craftsman 2 with the 14HP opposed twin and this is what I
run: So far I have tried two different pulley setups, all on the back
half of the jackshaft. I tried a 9"-3" and it slipped too much, so I
went to 10" to 4.5" with a 5/8 belt and slippage is gone. On the front
half, currently, it uses stock diameter pulleys 4" on motor 4.25" on
jackshaft. The front belt slips bad and I am currently in the process of
building a whole new setup for the clutch and pulleys up front. The way
it is, I figure I get up to 40-45mph top speed in 5th gear at full
throttle. Problem is with pulley sizes on the jackshaft is that if you
have a large engine pulley to a small jackshaft pulley the rpms on the
bearings for the shaft will be way too high. The bearings I use are
chevron flange ball bearings from mc master carr with a 6800rpm max
speed for 1" dia shaft. They were $55 a piece but should hold up to
anything I can throw at them. The new pulley setup I am working on will
use a 6" on the motor and a 5" on the shaft. This will give me slight
overdrive and should keep bearing speed low enough not to max out AND I
am setting it up for a 5/8" belt instead of the 1/2" belt I just smoked.
I am also adding blocks I fabricated with idlers to draw the belt
together directly in back of the engine and bottom jackshaft pulleys to
maximize belt contact. I will try to get some new pictures this weekend.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: jackshafts*
Post by mowmanscott on Oct 1, 2005, 9:11am


Thanks hot rod keep me posted. also have you lowerd your rear axel to
make this set up work? I nead all the help so I can HOPELY beat my
fellow racers. By the way who do you race with? Iam up hear in ny.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: jackshafts*
Post by HotRodLawnTractor on Oct 6, 2005, 12:20am


Ok, I did some work both saturday and sunday, but I was helping my
brother put the engine back in his ranger most of the day sat, so I
didn't get much time to work on //my// parts. I stripped off the old
pulley setup and removed the clutch pedal/shaft and idlers from the
bottom of my tractor and test fitted one of the idler block setups . I
should be able to finish the 2nd block this weekend and paint it, if all
goes according to plan. I have a few pics you might like to see.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/ChainedDown/P1010004.jpg
This is one that shows you the c-notch in the frame I made to lower the rear.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/ChainedDown/P1010002.jpg
The first setup for rear of jackshaft. Here you can see the 9" pulley.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/ChainedDown/P1010006.jpg
Here is the underside of the jackshaft setup. This shows the mounting block
I made from 1/2 steel for the bearings to hold the shaft. Note the green
fuzz covering everything, yep, you guessed it: that's belt all over it
from slippage.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/ChainedDown/P1010003.jpg
Reardisc brake setup from gokart parts.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/ChainedDown/P1010001.jpg
Gas and brake pedals.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/ChainedDown/P1010045.jpg
Here is the finished idler block I was describing. These will mount in front of
the motor and jackshaft pulleys to draw the belt together and maximize
pulley contact.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/ChainedDown/P1010043.jpg
Here is the 2nd, and as yet unfinished idler block. Check it out, those are
probably the best welds I have EVER made.

So far, I haven't raced it, as it is still unfinished, but I spoke with
Tom Lavalette, the pres of the Pennsylvania Lawn mower Racing
Association earlier this year and he gave me a list of tracks when I'm
ready. Right now I just terrorize... and entertain the neighbors with it.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: jackshafts*
Post by mowmanscott on Oct 6, 2005, 6:04am


hotrod I couldn't get the pic's this morning I'll try to night, BTW were
is Hamburg ? I also talked to some one on the old school I-mow class,
though about racing that class.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: jackshafts*
Post by HotRodLawnTractor on Oct 6, 2005, 11:28am


Hamburg is in Northern Berks county, about 90 miles north of
Philadelphia. They built a Cabela's store here a few years ago, don't
know if you heard about that. I chose BP as what I wanted to race in
because it allowed me the greatest creative freedom and because my
tractor would not have fit in any of the other classes.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: jackshafts*
Post by mowmanscott on Oct 6, 2005, 7:15pm


got the pics. tonight looks good I liked the idler pull set up. Im from
Syracuse right in the middle of the state.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: jackshafts*
Post by 1031 on Oct 13, 2005, 11:56pm


May I add a question here under Jack shafts?
Why run a jackshaft setup? Why not just run a longer belt ?
Does the jackshaft help in speed and torque?
Thanks 1031
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: jackshafts*
Post by HotRodLawnTractor on Oct 14, 2005, 1:11am


When you lower a rear end of a tractor, you are actually /raising/ the
transaxle in relation to the original position on the frame. This,
correspondingly raises the position of the pulley within the frame. In
my case, I lowered the rear end 5 inches so the pulley ended up 5 inches
higher up within the frame than in stock position. Jackshafts provide an
intermediate shaft with a pulley on each end, one aligned with the
engine pulley and one aligned with the raised pulley on the transaxle. I
hope that explains things a little better.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: jackshafts*
Post by mowmanscott on Oct 14, 2005, 5:40am


I cant lower my frame in my class I'm trying to find a way to use a jack
shaft set up with out droping the frame..tork and speed is all in the
way you set it up...Any help would would be great.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: jackshafts*
Post by 1031 on Oct 14, 2005, 8:46pm


Thanks for the explanation of the jackshaft. I too can not lower my
mower. The transaxel has to remain in the original spot. Thanks for the
reply

------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: jackshafts*
Post by mowmanscott on Oct 14, 2005, 9:53pm


1031 who do you race with? Scott
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: jackshafts*
Post by 1031 on Oct 14, 2005, 10:48pm


Yes I race with a scott, but he is in the super mod class and one heck
of a driver.
I am just a newbie learning the trick to go fast and turn left!
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: jackshafts*
Post by mowmanscott on Oct 15, 2005, 7:00am


1031 No what club and were... Scott
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: jackshafts*
Post by 1031 on Oct 15, 2005, 7:09pm


try this link if you want. Our Club is in Southeast Missouri
www.semowlawnracers.com <http://www.semowlawnracers.com> hope this helps
you out Scott
------------------------------------------------------------------------

11
Driveline / tourq converters
« on: November 05, 2005, 10:56:15 am »
tourq converters
Post by grindleracing19 on Sept 19, 2005, 9:00pm

any one out there running tourq converter set up on there mower . i need to find tourq conerter that will take about 35 horse and turning 7,000 rpms please let me know

thanks shane

12
Driveline / Foote Transmission
« on: November 05, 2005, 10:55:23 am »
*Foote Transmission..*
Post by Squidd on May 16, 2005, 8:18pm

Went out junkyardin the other day looking for a Peerles chain drive
trans for a future project, and ran across a couple Foote trans...

They any good, any numbers to look for or stay away from...??
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Foote Transmission..*
Post by George Herrin on May 17, 2005, 4:04pm


Never seen any foote's hold up very well. Not to say they won't I just
never seen any do well.
George
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Foote Transmission..*
Post by Squidd on May 17, 2005, 9:37pm


Thanks...will leave them in the "yard"... 8-)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Foote Transmission..*
Post by alleight on Aug 23, 2005, 6:45pm


The Footes will do for the IMOW speeds want they ?
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Foote Transmission..*
Post by George Herrin on Aug 28, 2005, 10:43pm

Yes I know several that use them in IMOW. So they should work out there!!!
George
------------------------------------------------------------------------

13
Driveline / mtd 719-0313
« on: November 05, 2005, 10:53:04 am »
*mtd 719-0313*
Post by mtdmaniac on Aug 22, 2005, 7:25pm


is an mtd 719-0313 a good transmission/transaxle for a racer? im not
actually racing, so if its not tell me what is bad about it, since my
expectations as a fun toy are different than those of real racers.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: mtd 719-0313*
Post by George Herrin on Aug 22, 2005, 10:42pm


No it isn't I mow 6 acres and in five years I have put 4 in my grass
cutter, nothing about them is strong enough to hold up to the stress of
a modified mower.
george
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: mtd 719-0313*
Post by mtdmaniac on Aug 23, 2005, 7:59am

thanks george
you just saved me from putting 200 bucks into my mower.
do you have any reccomendations for a cheap setup? i have an old
peerless gearbox, but i cant weld so i cant use that with a rear go kart
axle? what should i do and where can i get parts CHEAP as in about 100
dollars
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: mtd 719-0313*
Post by mtdmaniac on Aug 23, 2005, 2:07pm


sorry about that last message. my typing was off and it seemed like it
was asking a completely stupid question. what i meant to say was:

if you had not answered, i would have put about 200 bucks into parts for
that transaxle, and it, as you said, wouldnt be worth it. i have an old
peerless gearbox, but i cant weld, so that would be a bit difficult,
because of the stepthrough frame. Does anyone have any suggestions on
how i could set this mower up for a cheap amount of money (under $200)

------------------------------------------------------------------------

14
Driveline / tranny
« on: November 05, 2005, 10:51:25 am »
*tranny*
Post by mtdmaniac on Aug 21, 2005, 7:06pm


hey,

im building a racing mower.
i wanted to know, since there are no wheels to fit on stock
teansaxles(if there are please tell me where to get them), should i have
a centrifugal clutch on the engine, with a belt going directly to an old
peerless, with a chain drive going to the rear axle? would it be worth
it? the only thing i would need to get is the rear axle.is this what i
should do, or could i get fast speed wheels somehow to fit on the rear
transaxle??? if you know anything about this tell me. i need this info,
and need to know where i can get the parts.please answer if u know anything
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: tranny*
Post by crafty on Aug 21, 2005, 11:23pm


Good evening. Hope alls well. While I'm far from being an expert, there
are two ways to go about this. You can go with the Peerless gear box(700
transmission) which is a 5 speed,and kart axle or, you can use the
trans-axle and still use kart style wheels if you use an adapter that
goes on the axle and allows you not only to use the kart wheels but also
gives you some adjustment on the width. But I have seen factory chrome
Murray wheels. Don't have any but do know they made them.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: tranny*
Post by mtdmaniac on Aug 22, 2005, 8:32am


thanks a lot crafty, i didnt know about the adaptors until now. Where
can i get one? id appreciate a reply

------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: tranny*
Post by crafty on Aug 22, 2005, 9:08am


Mornin to ya. Just go to acmemowersports.com and you will find most
everything you need.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: tranny*
Post by mtdmaniac on Aug 22, 2005, 2:01pm


thanks for everything, but i hav one last question (apolagies for all
the questions) i didnt see anything listed as adaptors, and i was
wondering what you meant by adaptor. did you mean a hub for kart wheels,
or the rear shafts??? sorry for the confusion, but im confused
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: tranny*
Post by crafty on Aug 22, 2005, 3:29pm

Ok, go to the acme home page and click on the 3/4 trans-axle parts. Then
select the adaptors. Will show you everything you need. While there,
check the brake adapters. You need to be able to stop these things and
stock trans-axle brakes are not enough. To me fast is only fast if you
are in control, no brakes is considered out of control. Oh and yeah
these are for your trans-axle axles and allow you to use kart wheels.
The site will explain it all.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

15
Driveline / Wich Peerless is better?
« on: November 05, 2005, 10:49:54 am »
*Wich Peerless is better?*
Post by UndergroundTech on May 16, 2005, 5:43pm


I have a Peerless 930-005 & a 920-041 and need to know wich is the
better transaxle.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Wich Peerless is better?*
Post by George Herrin on May 17, 2005, 4:07pm


I have had good luck with the 920's in past years. not familiar with the
other.
George
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Wich Peerless is better?*
Post by UndergroundTech on May 17, 2005, 6:19pm


Thanks George :)
One other thing... Are the MTD 717-761 transaxles any good, I also have
two of those.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Wich Peerless is better?*
Post by George Herrin on May 17, 2005, 6:52pm


No not for racing. George
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Wich Peerless is better?*
Post by UndergroundTech on May 17, 2005, 8:23pm


OK.... Thank for the info ;)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Wich Peerless is better?*
Post by Squidd on May 17, 2005, 9:44pm


So what makes one transaxel or tranny better than another...

Bushings vs bearings...castings...shaft size... or steel vs aluminum
gears...??

Is there a "list" somewhere or could you post a few "numbers/brands"
that are "favored" ..

Would be of help in the "search" at the junkyards/shops to know the
numbers ahead of time..

TIA..

------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Wich Peerless is better?*
Post by H2Mow on May 17, 2005, 9:53pm


700 series or 350 series Peerless tranny's and 820-017 ( hard to find)
trans axles. The 820's had a 1" axle. Some have luck with 920 trans
axles also and the 600 series are not bad either.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Wich Peerless is better?*
Post by Squidd on May 17, 2005, 10:14pm


Thanks Eric...

How about an 806-D..? (Transaxel)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Wich Peerless is better?*
Post by H2Mow on May 18, 2005, 7:27pm


It should work and it looks like that number trans axle has bearings for
the axles. ;)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Wich Peerless is better?*
Post by UndergroundTech on Jul 26, 2005, 12:08am


Aside from changing the pulleys, is there anything I can do to improve
my otherwise stock Peerless 920 for racing?

Also are the 820-017's the only ones with the 1" axle?
and is there possi-traction available for Peerless tansaxles or is the
solid axle the only way to go?
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Wich Peerless is better?*
Post by mowmanscott on Jul 26, 2005, 6:11am


were can I get a solid axel for these transmission or what is the best
way to mak it? scott
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Re: Wich Peerless is better?*
Post by UndergroundTech on Aug 16, 2005, 3:03pm



*Jul 26, 2005, 12:08am
UndergroundTech wrote:*

Quote
"Aside from changing the pulleys, is there anything I can do to improve
my otherwise stock Peerless 920 for racing?

Also are the 820-017's the only ones with the 1" axle?
and is there possi-traction available for Peerless tansaxles or is the
solid axle the only way to go?"




BUMP
------------------------------------------------------------------------

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