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Messages - Goeytex

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 9
1
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: HP loss
« on: April 16, 2011, 01:50:36 pm »
All of the rules are can be found in the PDF below.

No porting, no polishing, etc ,,,,,

http://www.uslegendcars.com/documents/bandoleros1.pdf 

2
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: HP loss
« on: April 15, 2011, 02:30:21 pm »
Looks like all you can legally do to the engine is change/drill the main jets
and add aftermarket valve springs.  

I'd check compression,  adjust valve lash and give the carburetor a good cleaning.
Maybe a fresh set of valve springs.  

Maybe put in a set of new plugs and make a hard run and then read the plugs
to see if the fuel mixture is acceptable.

If your cam lobes or rings are worn out not much you can do except send it
in for a rebuild, but you are doing that anyway.




3
Coffee Shop / Re: Tachometer Adapter Plans ( Update )
« on: April 11, 2011, 02:38:28 pm »
Update:

The "code"  has been updated to work with either the kill terminal as an input or
with a Hall sensor input.   The updated code is attached.  

The complete DYI manual should be ready tomorrow or Wednesday.  The Manual will
show how to make a nice Hall Sensor with bracket  for about  $4 - $5.  

Bill

Note:  Remove the "Pause 5000" line before programming.   

4
Coffee Shop / Rev Limiter Instructions Attached
« on: March 30, 2011, 03:47:54 pm »
Attached is updated instruction sheet for the Rev Limiter for those of you
that have one or are considering getting one.

Goeytex

5
Coffee Shop / Re: Stock flywheels
« on: March 28, 2011, 05:55:41 am »
Please consider this just my best guess and nothing to rely upon.  I am not a metallurgist but
do have a bit of experience in the boilermaker  & millwright trades.

A good casting should not "explode"  or fly apart simply due to rpms (within reasonable limits).  
However when "modified"  or  mistreated by beating on it with a hammer or tightening with
an impact wrench, or simply dropping it on a concrete floor,  hairline cracks can develop becasue
the castings are quite brittle & more prone to cracking than their billet counter parts.  

Then due to the effect of centrifugal force any small crack or cracks can open up and eventually
cause the casting to separate and fly into several pieces. This could happen at any rpm
dependent upon the location and/or  severity of the crack or cracks which are seldom visible.
An out of balance situation of the casting will make the situation even worse and more likely
to fail at lower rpm.

This is why it is so important not to modify a cast flywheel by, for example, removing
alternator magnets, welding , removing material to reduce weight, etc,  UNLESS you can
balance it perfectly after any modifications and then also either x-ray or magaflux it to
check for cracks.    

This should in no way be interpreted to imply that a stock cast flywheel on a racing mower
should ever be modified.  It's just too potentially dangerous.  The outer velocity of a 10 inch flywheel
at 6000 rpm is about  175 miles per hour.  A 1 lb chunk of jagged metal traveling @175 mph hitting
you or the guy racing next to you can cause a lot of damage including dismemberment  & death.
It just isn't worth it.

6
Briggs Flathead / Re: Measuring crankshaft end play
« on: March 17, 2011, 07:49:51 am »
Quote
Yea I forgot the dang dial indicator at work so just went by feel".

    :rofl:       

7
Coffee Shop / Re: Tachometer Adapter Plans
« on: March 15, 2011, 11:59:42 am »
...Have you developed a case/protector for the processor?

You can get a black ABS enclosure either from Radio Shack or through Mouser Electronics for about
$3.00.

8
Coffee Shop / Tachometer Adapter Plans
« on: March 15, 2011, 09:53:08 am »
Attached is a schematic diagram for a Universal Tachometer  Adapter for Briggs Engines. The diagram is divided in to color coded sectional blocks for clarity.

This device takes the signal from the kill terminal on a Briggs Ignition and converts it to a signal usable by any known tachometer, including Automotive Tachometers, Equus Tachometers,
Digatron, Mychron, etc.

The output is jumper selectable for the above via JP1 and is also jumper selectable for either 5v TTL output, 12v pulse output, or Digatron "Open Collector Output".

This device uses an inexpensive ($2.95) Picaxe 08M microprocessor to do most of the work. This entire circuit will fit on a 1.5" X 2.0" proto board from Radio Shack.  

The microprocessor is programmed via programming port J1 and a serial cable attached to your PC. The programming software is free from Rev-Ed. The serial programming cable costs about $7 or
you can make your own using an old serial mouse cable. Contact me for more info / instuctions.

The total cost to build this is about $20 assuming that you have a soldering iron, a volt meter and few basic hand tools. All of the components are available from either Radio Shack, Mouser, or
Spark Fun Electronics.  I can supply a pre-programmed microprocessor at cost plus shipping for those who just want to make the board and not mess with programming.

It you have ever wanted to to get into electronics and / or embedded microprocessors this would be a great first project.

The programming code is attached in file TA_Code.txt  I will be posting a 10 page DYI Instruction Manual on this in a few days.    

Bill

9
Briggs Flathead / Re: Measuring crankshaft end play
« on: March 11, 2011, 09:13:20 am »
What I am hearing then is that crank end play in a Mower engine is not that critical unless it too tight since there needs to be enough room for an oil film on the wear surfaces. 

I know in automotive engines and especially with any kind of shaft system that has helical cut gears, that  end play it is not something to take to take lightly, as some of you seem to be doing.

With the straight cut crank and cam  gears I guess there is not that much thrust to be concerned with. Still for me, I think anything over about .030 would be reason enough to take corrective action.

10
Briggs Flathead / Re: Measuring crankshaft end play
« on: March 10, 2011, 08:22:57 pm »
When I was a field service engineer for Eastman Kodak some of the equipment I serviced had pretty tight tolerances (+ -.0005) that if not adjusted to spec would result in the equipment not working at all, overheating, premature wear and/or catastrophic failure. I had dial gauges, micrometers, lasers, etc to get some machines correctly adjusted.  After several years of getting to know a machine and its sounds and quirks, I could sometimes leave the tools in the bag and make many adjustments by ear or by feel.  

My point being,  it took several years of experience to be able to do this.  

It is not likely that someone who has never measured/adjusted crankshaft end play will have the ability to get it correct
by tickety tock sounds the first time out.  

I would highly recommend that if you have never done this, to use a dial gauge the first few times and get some experience under your belt before using the tick tock method.

11
Coffee Shop / Re: new, need some help
« on: March 09, 2011, 02:35:27 pm »
The attached diagram should get you going.  It is all you need
for a basic wiring harness.  If your engine is a single then you won't
have the diodes,  just a single black wire to the coil.

12
Coffee Shop / Re: Rant
« on: March 07, 2011, 03:53:01 pm »
I understand the rant.  

For my part here's what I can do.  

I am going to make the schematics and the programming code for the Rev Limiter and for
a universal Tach Adapter freely available to anyone here that wants them as long as they
are not used for commercial purposes.  Personal Use only.

Buy from me,  or built it yourself.  ( I barely break even anyway. ) 

I know that not everyone has the time or the inclination to build a circuit board, but for those
who can, this is grass roots at its best.    

I will post them soon.


13
Coffee Shop / Re: engine test stand
« on: March 05, 2011, 02:39:54 pm »
What's going in that suspicious looking black box ?   Hmmm   I wonder ....

14
Coffee Shop / Re: Rev Limiters Available
« on: March 05, 2011, 12:53:24 am »
At present I'm going to use a Kaw FB460v. Stock without the governer.
I'll be using other engines as I progress with more seat time.
Looking for a Tec OV490 for my next and don't know after that.
So I was looking to use the rev limiter along as I progressed.

I have never personally seen a Kawasaki FB460V.  But I just looked at a parts diagram and the service repair manual.
Looks like a flathead with a cast flywheel.  The flywheel looks to have a magnet similar to that on a Briggs. But it has 
a separate ignition control unit. The good news is that it kills the same way as a Briggs ... by grounding one side of the
primary.

So the answer is yes,  It will work with your FB460V engine.

Here is a link to the Service Manual for your Engine

http://www3.kawpowr.com/enginesecure/ServiceManuals/FB460V.pdf

Bill

15
Coffee Shop / Re: Rev Limiters Available
« on: March 04, 2011, 05:21:54 pm »
Are these units usable for all engine mfgs, or are they designed for just a few?
Such as Kaw ,Briggs, Tec, etc.

Sandsnipe,

The rev limiter uses a hall sensor that I supply.  As long as the flywheel has a magnet similar to that of a Briggs
or ARC flywheel it will work.  If you take a photo of your flywheel  ( magnet part) and post it here or send it to me
vial email.  I can let you know for sure. 

Let me know what engine you have and what kind of flywheel ( aluminum / cast iron) .  We can make it work on any engine
if you really want one.

Bill

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