Heymow - Lawnmower Racing Forum

Mower Building / Setup Help => Driveline => Topic started by: Tom Fox on January 12, 2008, 11:39:27 am

Title: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Tom Fox on January 12, 2008, 11:39:27 am
Due to size...this topic is being split up...it will follow step-by step...but give me a few moments to post all sections of the build-Thanks!



I just race-prepped my 700 series tranny and documented STEP-BY-STEP what was done.

First and foremost…..I would have not attempted this without the help here at HEYMOW!!! The advice given here is priceless and just want to do my part and give some back to you guys!

This is pretty much the same as George’s RACE PREP procedure..except with some pictures and a few of my own additions.

For part numbers and other specifics…please read Georges post http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=192.0


First thing that was done was the tranny was taken completely apart. The only items left in the case was the input needle bearings.

The case halves, gears, shafts, keys…ect were complete cleaned and given a very close inspection for wear and any cracks.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0014-8.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0014-8.jpg)


The four shaft bushings WERE NOT cleaned in a solvent. They were just wiped off  and checked for wear. They were just fine and will be reused.

Reverse gears/chain went in the scrap pile…will not be used in a race tranny.

I installed 4 long bolts into the lower case to act as a stand while putting tranny together.


(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0015-8.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0015-8.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0017-4.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0017-4.jpg)




Once all your parts heve been inspected and/or replaced…it is time to start the assembly:

First thing I do is to get the needle bearing on the input snout repacked with grease.

This is done by pushing some good quality automotive grease into the input snout.
You then take the input shaft in one hand and with your other hand/finger cover the opposite end. SLOWLY push the input shaft into the snout.


(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0020-3.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0020-3.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0019-3.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0019-3.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0022.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0022.jpg)


This shaft acts as a plunger and forces the grease around the needle bearings.

Once you feel that there was sufficient penetration of grease into the bearings, you can now remove the shaft and wipe away the excess grease that came out of the snout.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0024-2.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0024-2.jpg)




---From the factory, there was a O-RING on the bottom of the snout and the top as well. These will NOT be installed.

A SEAL will be installed on the bottom of the snout.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0025-1.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0025-1.jpg)

I  placed the seal on the snout in the proper orientation. Squared it up and SEATED it with a proper size pusher (socket) and lightly tapped it into place.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0027.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0027.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0026-2.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0026-2.jpg)

I installed the retaining clip onto the input shaft “PULLY” side as well as a washer. I now inserted the input shaft into the snout from the BOTTOM . By placing the input shaft in from the bottom, you will not “ROLL” the lip of the seal and cause a leak.


Now with the input shaft pushed all the way up into the case…the next thing to do is install the needle bearing that goes under the pinion gear. REMEMBER….DO NOT install a O-RING….The gear oil will not be able to lubricate the input bearings if the O-RING is installed.
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0032.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0032.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0033.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0033.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0034.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0034.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0035.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0035.jpg)

Now install the pinion gear and clip….I now “FEEL” the end play of the input shaft assembly…If it feels loose, you can add another shim to tighten it up….if it feels to tight..you can remove the top washer right below the pinion.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0036.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0036.jpg)


That takes care of your INPUT.

Now onto the gears!!!

MAKE SURE you inspect the keys for wear!! Look on the sides and top corners…if they show wear..REPLACE!!!!

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0040-1.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0040-1.jpg)


Now Check the shift gears….look for nice and square corners,,,if rounded or chipped…replace

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0044-1.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0044-1.jpg)

Now inspect the output shaft splines…if these are worn or damaged don’t even bother using it…get another one!!!

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0043-1.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0043-1.jpg)

Now remember…EC sells sprocket adapters for both the FINE and COURSE type shafts.

The 2 sides of the shifting
gears are different. One side is flat and the
other side is cut out. The flat side of the gear
is placed onto the shaft towards the shoulder
of the shaft or towards the shifting keys.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0044-1.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0044-1.jpg)

Shoulder

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0045-1.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0045-1.jpg)

The newer style SHIFTING WASHERS hade a raised radius ring..this raised ring goes toward the shoulder of the shaft.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0047-1.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0047-1.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0046-1.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0046-1.jpg)

I then install the shifting collar with the keys. The collar has a wide side and a narrow side

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0048.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0048.jpg)

The wide side faces the shoulder on the shaft.

I take the keys and hold them in place with my fat thumb.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0049.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0049.jpg)


I then just slip it onto the shaft, and slide it down a bit so it self retains itself as an assembly.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0050.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0050.jpg)


(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0051.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0051.jpg)


Now we can start installing the shift gears onto the shaft.

First you install a shifting washer onto the shaft raised ring toward Shoulder on shaft….then install FIRSTGEAR with FLAT SIDE towards the shoulder

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0052.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0052.jpg)

Now install another shift washer and SECOND gear

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0053.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0053.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0054.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0054.jpg)



Another washer and THIRD GEAR

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0055.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0055.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0056.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0056.jpg)



Another washer and FOURTH gear

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0057-1.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0057-1.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0058.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0058.jpg)



One more of the raised washers and FIFTH gear

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0059.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0059.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0060.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0060.jpg)



Now…you should have no more of those raised washers left…but you will have another washer that looks like this:

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0061.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0061.jpg)

This washer has a lip on it that goes toward the shoulder of the shaft.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0062.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0062.jpg)

You now will have a completed output shaft assembly

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0063.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0063.jpg)


Now we can assemble the COUNTER SHAFT

Install bevel spur gear and smallest (first gear counter) to largest (fifth gear counter) gears to the splined end of the counter shaft.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0064.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0064.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0065.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0065.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0066.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0066.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0067.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0067.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0068.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0068.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0069.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0069.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0070.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0070.jpg)

We can now install the shaft support bearings onto the COUNTER SHAFT. First put some grease onto each end of the shaft. Now install the bearings.

 (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0073.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0073.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0074.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0074.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0075.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0075.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0076.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0076.jpg)



Now place this assembly into the lower case.


(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0077.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0077.jpg)

Now do the same for the output shifting shaft


(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0078.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0078.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0079.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0079.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0080.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0080.jpg)



Now make sure that the shift keys are not locked into any of the gears. If it is just pull back on the collar to disengage keys from gears. This is now in Neutral.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0081.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0081.jpg)

I now apply a little grease into the shifter pocket in the lower case

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0072.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0072.jpg)

I now take the shifter rod assembly and place the pins into the grove on the shifting collar.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0082.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0082.jpg)

Now take the entire assembly and place into the lower case making sure that the shifter rod seats into its pocket.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0083.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0083.jpg)

Make sure that all 4 shaft bearings are KEYED into the case

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0084.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0084.jpg)




You can now use your gasket sealer/maker to coat the outside perimeter of the 4 bearings.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0086.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0086.jpg)

Make sure that when you place the shafts back down that the bearings are seated and keyed into location.

You can now make a bead of sealant around the case edge.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0087.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0087.jpg)

Now you can add your choice of gear lube into the lower case. Add enough to cover the top of the input pinion gear.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0090.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0090.jpg)

I then rotated the input shaft by hand to make the gears rotate and check for good lube coverage.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0091.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0091.jpg)


Before putting the top case cover on..I put a little grease onto the shoulder of the shifter rod to help lubricate it in the case.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0092.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0092.jpg)

The top half of the case can now be installed and secured with the 6 mounting bolts.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0093.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0093.jpg)

Now we need to install the shifter detent ball. I put some grease on the ball and insert it into it’s location

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0098.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0098.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0097.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0097.jpg)

install the spring and set screw next.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0100.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0100.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0099.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0099.jpg)

I tighten up the set screw to about 2 threads into the case. This can be adjusted to personal feel of how the shifter feels

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0101.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0101.jpg)


Now we need to vent the case…..

The location of the neutral switch is a ideal location. I

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0102.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0102.jpg)

I used a ¼ NPT brass fitting.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0103.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0103.jpg)


Now you need to shorten the threads on these fittings or they will hit the shifter fan and you won’t be changing gears!!

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0104.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0104.jpg)

I took off about 3 threads..this gives me just enough clearance from the shifter fan.


I also installed a O-RING and a little RTV onto the threads before installing into case.

105 106 107
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0105.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0105.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0106.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0106.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0107.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0107.jpg)



On the shifter shaft that protrudes thru the case, I also install a O-RING onto the SHOULDER part  of the shaft.

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0108.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0108.jpg)


Here is the final product ready for install!!!!

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0109.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0109.jpg)







Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: grassthrasher on January 12, 2008, 11:48:28 am
very well done  :woo: good job TOM FOX  karma for you  8)
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: George Herrin on January 12, 2008, 11:58:13 am
Only thing I see worng.... is there should be a thrust washer installed first before the brass bushing. NOW this does not apply where the cupped washer is installed at the end of the gears on the shift shaft.... Was there none there there or you forget or am I not seeing them. (3 altogether)
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Tom Fox on January 12, 2008, 12:04:55 pm
Thanks but don't need that KARMA stuff......

Remember....This assembly was all done with the help of George from his race prep topic http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=192.0

I'm just sharing some pics to help those who may feel a little intimidated by a transmission.

Take your time, read the tranny manual that this thumbnailed at the top of this catergory, read Georges INSTRUCTIONS on how he does it...put them all together and....

YOU CAN DO IT!!!
(http://blog.tmcnet.com/blog/tom-keating/images/tony-little.jpg)



-------

Only thing I see worng.... is there should be a thrust washer installed first before the brass bushing. NOW this does not apply where the cupped washer is installed at the end of the gears on the shift shaft.... Was there none there there or you forget or am I not seeing them. (3 altogether)

On this tranny 079...there were none when I opened up the case. By checking the SIDE-TO-SIDE movement of the shafts...There is around .010 movement...If I was to install washers there....It would be quite tight.....I'm sure I can order up some ultra thin ones to install to save on the wear that can happen to the bushings.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: George Herrin on January 12, 2008, 12:12:34 pm
Very odd looking at the parts break down of the 079 it shows them 3 of them plus the two under the input pinion and the one on the output shaft covering the all the same washer same thickness and same pt# 780072. Never seen a 700 without them SOME don't use the cupped washer and use one there also but not all.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Tom Fox on January 12, 2008, 12:20:24 pm
Very odd looking at the parts break down of the 079 it shows them 3 of them plus the two under the input pinion and the one on the output shaft covering the all the same washer same thickness and same pt# 780072. Never seen a 700 without them SOME don't use the cupped washer and use one there also but not all.

I too noticed on the parts sheet that they have washers there....And I'm 100% sure when I took it apart there were none there ( I carefully took the trany apart noticing each and every component--for it was my first teardown on one of these) I have other washers from trannies I took apart...I could always try them in there......Now I am using a counter and output shaft from a 002 transmission...not saying it makes a difference but just FYI.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: George Herrin on January 12, 2008, 12:25:25 pm
The 700-002 and 002a uses them also. I would try to fit them in it doesn't take much for the gears to try and overlap on the edges and catastofic failure happens. Better to test fit em now than find you got a problem the hard way. Like I said I have never seen of even assembled one that doesn't use em.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: George Herrin on January 12, 2008, 12:26:48 pm
Roof materials are here I'll check back in latter time to go to work....
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Tom Fox on January 12, 2008, 12:32:19 pm
The 700-002 and 002a uses them also. I would try to fit them in it doesn't take much for the gears to try and overlap on the edges and catastofic failure happens. Better to test fit em now than find you got a problem the hard way. Like I said I have never seen of even assembled one that doesn't use em.

WILL DO!!!

-------Just did.....Will update images later...But three washers have now been installed BEHIND the two brass bushings on the counter shaft and behind the brass bushing on the output shaft BRAKE side.

Thank you George!!!

Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Tom Fox on January 13, 2008, 07:24:36 pm
Here are some updated pictures of the thrust washers installed onto the shafts.


(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0004-22.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0004-22.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0003-17.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0003-17.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0002-15.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0002-15.jpg)

(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/th_DSCF0001-21.jpg) (http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n43/TEAM-KART/DSCF0001-21.jpg)

Thanks again to George for pointing this out.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: grassthrasher on January 13, 2008, 07:36:05 pm
ooooooo aaaaawwww I made the same mistak i didnt put it back in, now i no y I have extra parts :oops:
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: nor66 on January 13, 2008, 08:00:00 pm
Very nice Tom, I am sure I speak for everyone on heymow,  Very much appreciated!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Chris on January 14, 2008, 09:51:29 am
WOW, Nice writeup!

I posted this over on my forum with a link back to here ;)
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: grassthrasher on January 18, 2008, 09:03:41 pm
what is the advantage to venting to case?
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Tom Fox on January 18, 2008, 09:37:05 pm
what is the advantage to venting to case?

Not a advange...It is a MUST when using gear lube in place of grease. If not done, when tranny heats up from use, oil expands, as oil expands it increases the case pressure...without a vent it will find it's own way to release pressure...thru seals and bearings.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: George Herrin on January 18, 2008, 09:55:36 pm
Tom did the bushing do the job on the plate.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Tom Fox on January 18, 2008, 10:22:16 pm
Tom did the bushing do the job on the plate.

It was shy by about .250 all the way around...easy fix...got a 2" piece of tubing that had a .250" wall.....sliced a .250" thick piece....welded it into the opening in my tranny plate. Mounted tranny, Put the EC bushing in place. Tacked it, removed tranny, Finish weld the bushing in place!!!!
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: George Herrin on January 18, 2008, 10:31:12 pm
Sweet Glad to hear it worked out for you...
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: George Herrin on January 18, 2008, 10:33:39 pm
As you can see the support that bushing provides would be hard to duplicate properly with shop hand tools.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Tom Fox on January 18, 2008, 10:47:54 pm
As you can see the support that bushing provides would be hard to duplicate properly with shop hand tools.

I agree...and even if anyone does build their own TRANNY PLATE.....ORDER the Bushing from EC!!! 
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: lusty_monkey on January 22, 2008, 09:13:47 am
I looked through both of these build ups and learned how so i thank you both for them but i have a question?

i have a mod708b it didnt come with the bearings under the pinion gear do i need to put em in there and is this the part number -Input Needle Bearings 780086A-?
Thanx again :confused: :worried:
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: George Herrin on January 22, 2008, 09:28:08 am
If they don't have the bearings do not add them ot it will not work. Its two different pinions. And the # you listred is for the input bearings not the thrust bearing under the pinion.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: tractorracer12 on January 22, 2008, 03:40:51 pm
Is there any advantage to having the thrust bearing.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: George Herrin on January 22, 2008, 05:31:47 pm
No I personally don't use em. Just one more thing to go bad.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: lusty_monkey on January 23, 2008, 09:44:18 am
thanx for the help king george i was thinking more money lol
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: TheMowinCuban on January 23, 2008, 02:57:54 pm
KING george? oh no lets not start another nickname for Super George again! :lol:
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: George Herrin on January 23, 2008, 03:02:40 pm
Yea we don't need that. LOL
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Wheelhorseracer on February 05, 2008, 07:23:40 am
On the end of the vent tube do you use a check valve like the ones they use to vent the rear axle on a car or truck?

Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Tom Fox on February 05, 2008, 07:36:01 am
On the end of the vent tube do you use a check valve like the ones they use to vent the rear axle on a car or truck?



No need for that on a race vehicle. The reason they put item like that on passenger cars is all the years of use and weather they get subject to. On tis race tranny, you will perform routine maintenace such as chaging the oil and checking internal components (shift keys....). Per Georges recomendation, I run my vent line right over to the chain...anything that vents out of the tranny will aid in lubricating the chain!
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: overkillphil on February 05, 2008, 04:37:43 pm
Any problem switching around input shafts between short and long?  I have accumulated about 6 spare units, and some have longer and some shorter input shafts.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: George Herrin on February 05, 2008, 05:16:49 pm
nope.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: nor66 on March 04, 2008, 10:15:10 pm
What kind of end play do you want in the input shaft?
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: George Herrin on March 05, 2008, 06:59:20 am
I have never measured it.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: nor66 on March 05, 2008, 06:59:04 pm
The reason I asked is I put it back together with the steel ring and pinion and it doesn't seem to have much play at all, if I remove a shim from under the pinion it seems to be pretty loose but not sloppy either. Instead of how much end play, which would you prefer?
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: George Herrin on March 05, 2008, 07:28:55 pm
There should be the one thrust washer under the pinion gear. If its not much end play and turns freely I would not worry about it. It has to have that thrust washer uner the pinion gear
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: nor66 on March 05, 2008, 08:30:16 pm
OK! This one has the bearing under the pinion with the two washers. I am sure it has some play just can't feel it real well, but it does turn pretty free just didn't want to burn it up!
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: George Herrin on March 05, 2008, 09:38:02 pm
You ARE GOOD.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: nor66 on March 05, 2008, 09:42:18 pm
Thanks Again!
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Gary Elder on November 10, 2008, 09:22:30 pm
where do you guys get the input shaft seal?
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: nor66 on November 10, 2008, 09:27:20 pm
NAPA, Orielly auto parts.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Gary Elder on November 10, 2008, 09:34:01 pm
do they just sell seals in general or are they for this tranny?
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: nor66 on November 10, 2008, 09:41:44 pm
Use the part # in George's 700 build thread. I don't think they offer a seal for these trannys
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Gary Elder on November 10, 2008, 09:43:56 pm
ok, thanks.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: matt175 on November 10, 2008, 09:58:06 pm
federal-mogul # is 340387, most any parts store should be able to get it, but few have it in stock.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: rustyrocket on July 01, 2009, 09:57:41 pm
im totaly new to mower tractors. and god im loving the ease of "dropping the tranny" over my f150! but i have just a few questions that may be easy answers for you. i noticed that your tranny housing caps over one of your main shafts ends. mine is open on both shafts so i can see the shafts spinning when im in gear. i just cleaned out and converted my case to gear oil (per this thread) and i really dont understand how all my gear oil wont seap out of my shafts open ends after one run. or even how it doesnt seap out your countershaft either. also, my bushings are all steel except for one which is brass. i didnt catch which one was brass on teardown so i assumed that the brass one goes right behind the counter sprocket. does someone care to enlighten me with my newbish questions/consernes? 
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: redline on July 01, 2009, 10:07:15 pm
Throw away the steel ones and replace with the bronze ones. The steel ones will sieze. There is very minimal clearance between the shafts and the bushings. Oil seepage will be minimal at it's worst. Our team has 4 machines, all running 700's, and never had a problem. George has the part numbers listed for the bronze bushings in the 700 race prep thread. the other one, not this one.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: amr5080 on January 22, 2010, 08:03:31 pm
Is the brass fitting used for a vent 1/4 on the thread side and also on the barbed side?
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: LittleMow on January 22, 2010, 09:00:55 pm
You can get any size barbed you want. I run a 1/4.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: amr5080 on January 22, 2010, 09:10:05 pm
What size are the threads?
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: LittleMow on January 22, 2010, 09:28:05 pm
mmmm... Been a while since i had gotten my fitting for my trans. I think it was a 1/4 pipe thread. i will have to go out to the shop and look.  Maybe somebody else will know......   :doh:
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: jerb on January 22, 2010, 09:53:19 pm
i think i used a 1/4'' pipe thread, but i used a plastic fitting and had to ground part of the threads off, the hole in the tranny is bigger than 1/4 but smaller than 3/8 and is not actually a pipe thread, but a plastic elbow will screw in there and not cause harm, if you dont grind part of the thread off they will hit the shifter fan before the fitting gets tight....
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: amr5080 on January 22, 2010, 09:58:56 pm
Alright Thanks guys. That's what I was looking for. Is there a certain way to grind the threads without screwing them up?
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: jerb on January 22, 2010, 10:02:34 pm
if you use a plastic fitting, just grind them off with a hand grinder or a bench grinder,
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: matt175 on January 26, 2010, 05:16:02 pm
you can also modify the neutral safety switch, tap the center of it to 1/8 NPT and just use a fitting out of an old one piece carb off a briggs single. thats what I did and have had no problems.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: George Herrin on January 26, 2010, 05:38:47 pm
you can also modify the neutral safety switch, tap the center of it to 1/8 NPT and just use a fitting out of an old one piece carb off a briggs single. thats what I did and have had no problems.

DITTO.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: amr5080 on February 20, 2010, 04:42:28 pm
My tranny didn't have the thrust bearing washer when I tore it down.  Did some of them not come with it?Is this something that I should get?
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: cycloneracer on February 22, 2010, 06:38:42 pm
Some have it, some don't.  I run some with, and some without.  Just depends on what is in the case.  I don't put the bearing in if the tranny didn't have it stock.  I haven't noticed much difference.

Paul
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: amr5080 on February 22, 2010, 06:43:36 pm
Thanks Paul. I got it all together without it, and it seems to work alright.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: nor66 on February 23, 2010, 02:08:29 pm
I would recommend not using the thrust bearings at all, they will come apart and its not pretty.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Wheelhorseracer on March 06, 2010, 06:01:04 pm
Did I miss something or do you remove the reverse sprockets off the shafts? What do you put in it's place?

Can you leave them in?

I just opened my case for the first time today.. I was scared until I read this again today.. now I'm ready to get to it.

My input pinion had 8D stamped on it.. does this mean anything?
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Burwell555 on March 06, 2010, 06:39:12 pm
personally i run the sprockets and just take the chain out. i was told it had somethin to do with spacing to keep add a little more support as opposed to running without them and relying totally on the bushing flange with no spacers. It is also supposed to keep from wearing the flange off em. Followin me? Sounds good..is it true, couldnt honestly tell ya. I would think, but Im no pro. Again i was just told this by a guy thats been in it for a long time and i kinda naturally take his advice to heart!!  :lol: Hope this helps. If ya need it explained better, shoot me pm or somethin
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Wheelhorseracer on March 06, 2010, 07:21:23 pm
No.. I understand.. I was just wonder if it was just more weight to have to spin and that's why it was removed.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Burwell555 on March 06, 2010, 07:40:36 pm
thats a thought but if nothing is engaged, (the shift keys,) you will not be trying to fully spin them. kinda sounds stupid but the shaft can turn while the sprockets sit idle. This may only be the case at initial take off and slowing down but i dont know. its just a thought tponder. Hope i didnt ramble and run ya in circles
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Wheelhorseracer on March 06, 2010, 08:06:28 pm
No... I got ever bit of that..
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: moweracer913 on October 07, 2010, 05:34:39 pm
I found 6 peerless trannys for 40$ ea. but there 9 spline i know everyone runs the 36 spline are the 9s worth buying to race with :confused:
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: George Herrin on October 07, 2010, 05:48:33 pm
THE 9'S ARE AS GOOD AS ANY AND ec HAS HUBS FOR THEM
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: moweracer913 on October 07, 2010, 06:28:56 pm
cool man thanks is 40 a fair price for used
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Rooster on October 07, 2010, 06:35:29 pm
$40 is fair if they are good tranny's
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: moweracer913 on October 07, 2010, 06:53:02 pm
cool i was gonna open them up b4 i buy them i opend one and it has 4 shift keys they all came out of scag mowers do they all have 4 keys
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Rooster on October 07, 2010, 06:58:56 pm
no, some have 2 keys
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: George Herrin on October 07, 2010, 07:09:47 pm
IF they are all 9 spline they prolly steel input and bevel and all are 4 key shafts.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: moweracer913 on October 07, 2010, 09:30:15 pm
well they all came from the same brand mowers maybe differant year models so i might get all six then thanx for the help guys
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: leadslead on October 10, 2010, 07:28:09 pm
the steal gears are flat on the back all the way thew right ??? or is thier two styles of steal
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Okie-Chopper on July 16, 2011, 01:13:04 pm
I tried to use a bearing under the pinion gear but it makes it very tight to the ring gear(beveled)  I seen in this post just to remove a washer.  I was thinking of takin off a little off the bottom of the pinion in order to use both washers for the bearing,  has any one tried this?
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: George Herrin on July 16, 2011, 01:20:56 pm
There are two diffiferent pinions one that uses the two thrust washers and one that doesn't.
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Lambo on July 16, 2011, 01:56:31 pm
Can I tell if mine are steel based off the model #? Just looking at the color it's hard to tell. In fact, the colors of the gears look different between the two shafts. One has that darker brown look and the other has a brighter steel look to it. I can easily see that I don't have the brass bushings. It's two key setup.

Lambo
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: birdman_express on July 16, 2011, 02:52:07 pm
Brown says cast.
Title: "Color of Gears"
Post by: Rooster on July 19, 2011, 11:37:03 am
You cannot tell everything by the "color" of the gears.

Birdman is correct , if they are brown or even "goldish" colored then yes they are cast gears.
However, there are alot of "silver" looking cast gears as well.

The steel gears you can EASILY see machine marks in them.

If you look at a known cast gear, and hold a steel gear up to it you will see the difference IMMEDIATELY.

If you are holding the two gears side by side, and your still unsure about it, most likely not a steel gear.
The difference really is that easy to tell. 
Title: Re: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: THawley08 on July 19, 2011, 12:41:34 pm
Its so easy a bird and a chicken can do it. Lol

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Wheel Horse Man on September 06, 2011, 11:19:12 pm
Not a advange...It is a MUST when using gear lube in place of grease. If not done, when tranny heats up from use, oil expands, as oil expands it increases the case pressure...without a vent it will find it's own way to release pressure...thru seals and bearings.

wish ida seen this BEFORE testing, now i cant get the dern thing to quit leaking, only been raced once...
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: cycloneracer on September 06, 2011, 11:48:44 pm
Zach
If it leaking out the input get a new seal. Get a few. You will need them anyway.

The install is the key. You need to split the case and remove the input gear from the input shaft. Install new seal. Push input shaft UP into the case. Outside in. Then put gear back on in the case. If you push it in from the top. Inside to out. The keyway will cut the seal.

Paul
Title: Re: Peerless 700 Race Prep...STEP-BY-STEP (WARNING 80+ IMAGES)
Post by: Wheel Horse Man on September 07, 2011, 01:31:49 pm
Thanks Paul.