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Messages - DBSMowman

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Chassis / Re: Fixed Negative Camber
« on: June 23, 2019, 09:53:04 pm »
Here it is fabricated.

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Tires / Re: Wheels
« on: June 23, 2019, 09:51:00 pm »
Carlisle Turf Master 16x7.50-8 for the rears and Carlisle Turf Master 13X6.50-6 for the front and 8" x 8" Douglas blue wheels (4 on 4) for rears and 6" x Offset: 6.5'' x 2.5' for front. Get 4 on 4 hub for the rear and get 5/8" cart hub for the the front. Get an 1 1/4" axle between 36-38 inches in length. Won't matter because in the end your wheel base will be 40 inches or smaller set with axle collars.   

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Chassis / Re: Fixed Negative Camber
« on: June 20, 2019, 11:18:21 pm »
I spent some time modeling this in Fusion 360 and can show here if you cut the axle end at 20* and use Carlisle Turf Masters 13X6.50-6 and Douglas 6" wheels with and offset of 6.5'' x 2.5' and a 4" x 5/8" spindle that will produce a scrub radius of 2.5" I would go with less scrub radius but I'm maxing out the mechanical capabilities of the heim joint. I'll set caster at 12*.

In short, 20* KPI, 12* caster, 2* toe-in and 2* camber. (weld spindle with static or fixed camber)

If you don't do this and put front brakes on your axle then every time you apply breaking force the wheel with the most traction will force your steering wheel to turn the opposite because of the rotational force. The negative camber will give the added benefit of providing more grip in the turns while sacrificing some on the straights. Like I said, when you're on turf or grass and going in circles it's less effective to have a large scrub radius with no camber as George has suggested. Less scrub radius and a few degrees of camber is good, even with bias ply tires. Might also be a reason why George had to shift his weight so much like he talks about when he was racing and taking corners.

Here's a CAD drawing of it to illustrate what I'm saying.

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Chassis / Re: Fixed Negative Camber
« on: June 16, 2019, 11:04:30 am »
Sure, but I wouldn’t contribute those wins to 0* camber.

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Chassis / Re: Fixed Negative Camber
« on: June 15, 2019, 01:36:14 pm »
Thanks for the response. I have read that write up, and read a few engineering journals on it for on road vehicles. Also some great videos on youtube by SK8215 who is pretty much an engineering genius. I don’t agree with georges write up about camber. The OEMs do it, look at the new Craftsman tight turn mowers that now have ackerman steering and negative KPI. Having a large scrub radius in turns on dirt and grass is not a good thing. Agree with him we’re running bias tires so there is a difference. At the end of the day its probably splitting hairs on something like this. I’m going to build mine square and use the chromoly heim joints to get the camber I want. I dont see any advantage to fixing camber negative if using rod ends on your spindles.

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Chassis / Fixed Negative Camber
« on: June 14, 2019, 06:49:50 pm »
On your axle, if using top and bottom heim joint (spherical rod end) why cut the axle with a fixed 10* of negative camber? Isn't the whole reason you spend a extra money on the heim joint is to set that adjustment manually? Seems like at max go with 3*-5* fixed camber and use heim joint adjustment there to get the exact KPI and camber you want. I was thinking of leaving the axle ends square and using the the heim joint to get the KPI and camber I want. Am I wrong here?   

7
Driveline / Re: EC Distributing - trans mount plate
« on: June 05, 2019, 08:12:37 pm »
I’ll give them a call. I did find one of George’s builds with it. I’ll check out the build section. -Thanks

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Driveline / EC Distributing - trans mount plate
« on: June 04, 2019, 12:20:54 am »
Does EC Distributing still make the peerless 700 trans mounting plate? Anyone have photos of that they could share. -thanks

9
Chassis / Re: What did you do to strengthen the frame?
« on: May 30, 2019, 04:33:16 pm »
That blue metal is a t-square showing how out of square my frame is. Notice my frame has no lip. 3/4" square stock might be the best bet. I know I'm not only Craftsman owner here, I was hoping to avoid re-inventing the wheel. I do love the cross braces I've seen.

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Chassis / Re: What did you do to strengthen the frame?
« on: May 29, 2019, 10:24:39 am »
What about a B/P or IMOW machine where you use the original chassis? I took your advice and looked in the builds section. The problem with square tubing is you block all the mounting holes for your foot rests, clutch pedal and front axle. I bought hot rolled angle iron and was planning to square it up and run it down the inside of the chassis but that seemed foolish because I'd have to come back and put holes in it for mounting and then break it up through the axle section. I did see a bolt on cross member section. I love the way that looks. Maybe that's the best way to go. Square up the frame, drill the holes, tack some nuts and then build a square cross member section to run across the bottom. 

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Chassis / What did you do to strengthen the frame?
« on: May 28, 2019, 11:07:33 pm »
I have an ‘86 sears craftsman and wondering best way to square up and stregthen the frame without getting in the way of the bild down the road. I feel like things need to be square before I start modifying it. What have you done in the past or seen? Any pictures? Thanks

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