Topic: mikes idaho modified build

[mike h]

This winter I'm building a modified mower. The modified rules in the area are: 20 hp, no internal mods, mower transmissions 38" wide, 6" to the bottom of the frame, and must have j spindles.

I'm starting with a small wards mower, a 820 017 tranny and  kohler 18hp v twin.


this is the sheet metal


here's a side view of the tranny, jack shaft, motor, and front end-they are mocked in


this is a front view of the spindles -they will be cut down and threaded

[nic_hayes]

Where are you located?

[mowdak1]

See the thread on thumbnailing your images Mike... makes life simpler for those on dial-up. Getting it to Photobucket is the hard part, you simply grabbed the wrong code there. Last two three sections of the Tutorial will show you what to do there.

[mike h]

hayden lake idaho

[mowdak1]

Forgot to include the link to that thread... Sorry about that!!

http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=2346.0

[mike h]

thanks for the help
here is another photo I hope it's right
 


I am  using a murry spindle with 5/8 shaft it will have a 2"  shaft above the bearing
is this OK (2" between the bearing and the drive gear) ?

[mowdak1]

Well.... actually no, it should look like the one above. Not sure where you're picking your code up in Photobucket Mike.

When you load the images, scroll down a little and check the little box beneath each picture you want to post. Then scroll to the bottom of the page, and there is a "Generate HTML and Image Code" button, way over on the right. Click that!

Then you want to go down to the box just below where it says... "IMG clickable thumbnails for message boards - recommended" and simply left click in the box to copy. Then come back here and paste it to your post.

In that fashion Photobucket generates the thumbnailed image to play here, allowing for much smaller file size, and thus easier page loads for those on dial-up. And, once you click on it, the image plays in full resolution, whatever size that may be.

 
 

[Gary Elder]

I am  using a murry spindle with 5/8 shaft it will have a 2"  shaft above the bearing
is this OK (2" between the bearing and the drive gear) ?

if you mean the extra shaft sticking out past the sprocket from the jack shaft then that shouldn't hurt anything.

but how are you going to get the rear end narrow enough to be 38 inches wide with those fenders?

[badboysracing]

WHat do you mean how will be be able to get it narrow enoguh. I am not no jenous but it looks close to 38 the way it sits.

[Gary Elder]

 i think with the tires on the outsides of the fenders it'd be over 38

[mike h]

again i'm sorry on the photo thing and thank you for the help

and the fenders will be cut and moved so it will be 38'' wide  good observation!

[mike h]

Here are some photos of the work I've done this week


I've built a sub frame. It's tied into the upper steering column to stiffen the frame. The upper steering column will be tied to the foward frame near the front axel.

I planing to have the chassis functional with out the sheat metal on it so i can run it on the bench


 

[mike h]

Tonight I started on the running boards and peddles. I ran 2 pieces of 1" tubing under the frame from one side to the other.



Here the tubes support the running board on the right side I used a MTD running boards that I bent the ends backwards and mounted them upside down. The brake pedal is an MTD made smaller.

 

[Old Goat]

I see you have a chain from the jack shaft to the transaxle. You might be better off with a belt. Chains, especially small sizes like 35 or 40, dont like to be run on their side.

[mike h]

I see what you are saying but, the chain seems so positive of a connection.   What do you think of a glide "plastic" under the chain or a #50 chain

Last night I worked on the brakes.  Here is the brake pedal. The rod goes to a mechanical disk brake.