Author Topic: Wanting to start pulling  (Read 9911 times)

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Offline hrnts69

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Wanting to start pulling
« on: April 11, 2008, 10:48:59 am »
Hey guys, i just got a garden tractor from my Ag teacher a couple weeks ago and been thinking about what to do with it. So this i were iam at now.
Its a belt drive tractor with a believe a Pearless tranny. It has a Briggs 12hp Flathead thats it decent shape.
Iam wanting to run it in the Stock class:

2008 STOCK CLASS RULES
General rules for all classes plus the following:
1. All drivers must be six (6) years old or older. Must be able to operate tractor according to General
Rule #1. Drivers 10 & under must wear a helmet when pulling.
2. All tractors must have stock OEM type engines. Engine must match tractor frame. Transmission
case must match tractor frame. Wheelbase cannot be altered. This will allow up to 16 horsepower
engines in narrow, wide & spread frame tractors. Transmission, front axle and engine must be in
original location.
3. All engines to have working governors. Engine cannot exceed 3800 RPM at any time. RPM’s may
be checked before pulling. All throttles must have a positive stop and all foot throttles must have a
positive stop under pedal.
4. All engines must be stock unmodified OEM parts. Bore can be up to +.030 oversized. No porting
or polishing allowed. All cams and carburetors must be OEM specification and cannot be altered.
Heads must have inner and outer gasket seal surface. Balancing is not allowed. No more than 3/16
spacer on carburetor mount. Only OEM stock and OEM style inserted rods are allowed. No
modifications to the outer portion of the exhaust port. Muffler threads must be present and if a flange
and pipe are used, the stack may not extend past the flange into the block. CIGTP considers a stock
Kohler camshaft to measure .323” lift and 217 degrees duration on both intake and exhaust lobes, with
valve lash set to zero. The stock class accepts specifications for the K-series Kohler as the unofficial
standard for engines, which are common to most older garden tractors. If the participant is to run
something other than a K-series Kohler or a chassis which these engines are not common to, participant
must present documentation for factory stock specifications, such as bore, stroke, valve size,
carburetion and factory horsepower rating for engine model number.
5. Flathead in block valve type motors only. NO overhead valve type motors allowed.
6. Maximum tire size: 23x10.5x12 bar tires or original size turf tires. Maximum drawbar height is
fourteen (14) inches.
7. Must run pump gas only. Maximum of 750 specific gravity. NO alcohol or additives.
8. All tractors must have reverse gears and be able to back to the sled using reverse gear - tractors may be
pushed back to the sled.
9. 800 and 875 pound class, 10 horsepower and under, engine manufacturer rated.
10. 950 pound class, 12 horsepower and under, engine manufacturer rated.
11. 1050 pound class, 14 horsepower and under, engine manufacturer rated.
12. 1150 pound class, 20 horsepower and under, engine manufacturer rated.
13. 1250 pound class, 20 horsepower and under, engine manufacturer rated.

Will a belt drive tractor be able to compete in this class, or do i need to sell it and buy a Wheelhorse or older tractor?
Thanks
Blake

P.S. Where can i find a Spec sheet a 12hp Briggs Flathead so i can send it in to the race director?
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Offline Big daddy

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Re: Wanting to start pulling
« Reply #1 on: April 11, 2008, 04:26:54 pm »
Well, if you are planning on only pulling a few times with it, then I say have as much fun with it as you can. But if you plan on pulling all summer long and you are wanting to spend the time and a little money necessary to build a puller then I would advise on building a cub cadet (IH not MTD) with a 3 speed tranny. Peerless and Foote trannys will fail while pulling them, the case is not strong enough to keep things together under pulling conditions. With a Cub Cadet you will have something that you can build a little here and spend a little there and have something that will last. IH tractors have been pulling sleds for over 30 years, I have seen a few true JD's and wheel horse tracors that were JD and wheel horse not the  sheet metal over and IH chassis, but not many. The great thing about the stock class is with one of these cub cadet tractors you could build a really nice one for 1k-1.5k, but you don't have to spend that amount to get it to the track. My kids stock tractor is a 582 Ih cub cadet, by the time I bought the tractor, purchased a set of gears, bought a set of 26x12x12 Dick Cepek tires with aluminum rims, a set of tri rib fronts with aluminum rims, rebuilt a 16 hp. Kohler, built a carb. for it, paint,wire,polish, then when all was said and done I had around 1.5K. It could have been done for less than 1K without the aluminum rims for front and back, and maybe bought a set of Firestones instead of Cepeks.
Bruce Litton

Offline hrnts69

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Re: Wanting to start pulling
« Reply #2 on: April 11, 2008, 07:31:38 pm »
Iam wanting to pull prolly 1 time a month, 2 times max. I just want something to go out and have fun with. Iam not looking to spend alot of money, its not gonna be a NQS tractor, just something to fiddle and have fun with. What iam wanting to do is, repaint the chassis, rebuild the engine and carb, put a hitch on, and maybe some Carlise tires in the rear, thats about it. If you think a belt drive wont handle the abuse, can you help me locate a IH/WheelHorse tractor? IDK where to look on the net?
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Offline mtd91

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Re: Wanting to start pulling
« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2008, 08:53:23 am »
You can look on ebay and Craigslist.I see them on ebay all the time.

Offline FlatheadPuller

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Re: Wanting to start pulling
« Reply #4 on: April 12, 2008, 09:20:36 am »
I am going to have to disagree with you Big Daddy. A peerless four speed will take an incredible amount of abuse. A stock cub carrier will fail before a four speed peerless will. A 8 speed peerless will fail before a four speed will. My stepdads tractor is a 67 110 JD with abuilt 14 big valve kohler. .060, manely valves, 1.0 supercub carb with a vogel rotating assembly. And a vogel 340\277 cam. He was points champion with it last year. He has been running it 2 years with the original rear end. He also has  had lawntecs on it for the two years. He has never had a failure. In a stock class a 4 speed peerless belt drive tractor will hang with any stock cub. I have done it and alot more guys in my club. I would stick with the tractor you have to start.

Dennis
Dennis Bazzett
Grandville Michigan

Offline hrnts69

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Re: Wanting to start pulling
« Reply #5 on: April 12, 2008, 12:14:15 pm »
SAWEET!!!!! Ive got a pulling tractor!!!!!!!! Is there anything differnt i should do with a belt drive tractor than a Cub or IH???
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Offline FlatheadPuller

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Re: Wanting to start pulling
« Reply #6 on: April 12, 2008, 07:11:08 pm »
Well your going to want to build it to the rules exactly. I see they don't have a cubic inch rule in the stock class. I would find a belt drive tractor with a 40 cubic inch opposed twin. They will fit in the 14hp and under class and are 8 cubic inch bigger than a 14hp kohler. 40 cubes wer 12.5, 14, and 16hp. all the same engine just a differnet sticker. UNLESS you can't run a twin. Any older belt drive tractor will work. Wheelhorse, simplicity and a Deere would be great choices. A bottom shaft opposed twin dynamark style chassis would be good to. Have the cam ground to "stock" kohler specs as listed. There are always grey areas in any rules. Its a matter on how there interpreted. Some things just aren't stated.

Dennis
Dennis Bazzett
Grandville Michigan

Offline hrnts69

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Re: Wanting to start pulling
« Reply #7 on: April 12, 2008, 07:37:36 pm »
Ive got a belt drive tractor already, and ive got a Briggs 12hp Flathead engine. I was thinking just using the 12hp Flathead with my tractor already. Unless you think i should sell the Flathead and buy a opposed twin. But the problem is, i dont wanna spend alot fo money! Iam nt going out to win, iam just going out to have fun on a budget.
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Offline FlatheadPuller

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Re: Wanting to start pulling
« Reply #8 on: April 12, 2008, 09:37:46 pm »
If you have it already run it. I run a 12hp flattie on my boys tractor and it runs very well. Of course its in a lighter class and it is run with no governor. I will post a pic of my boys belt drive tractor.



This tractor was built in a week from spare parts. The only part I bought was the belt. It uses all the drivetrain from a dynamark belt drive tractor. It runs the twisted belt setup but I put it on a tractor that fit my boy. He is 5yrs old. It runs at 650lbs.

Dennis
Dennis Bazzett
Grandville Michigan

Offline hrnts69

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Re: Wanting to start pulling
« Reply #9 on: April 12, 2008, 10:33:04 pm »
Thats a nice lookin tractor! Did you strecth the frame? How do you run it without a governor? Are you afraid of throwin a rod? And what do you mean a "twisted' belt setup?
Also, what do i have to do to the chassis to make it sronger?
Sorry for all the questions
Blake
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Offline Big daddy

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Re: Wanting to start pulling
« Reply #10 on: April 14, 2008, 07:28:56 am »
 For what you are going to pull with this tractor I would go ahead and enjoy it, make sure you put some wheelie bars on it. As far as the comments that a cub carrier will fail before a foote or peerless, I tend to disagree. In 20 years I have seen 3 carriers fail on the track, all 3 failed because the driver wound the motor up 4500-5000rpm, then side stepped the clutch on a heavy sled. I have seen several brands on the track, day in day out the IH will come out on top. Sooner or later the other ones will start breaking shafts or cases. I have seen super stock tractors (16 hp. bored 0.060, cams in the 0.530" lift range, big valves, ported, aftermarket heads, Vogel supercarb. at the time producing between 35-45 hp. w/40-45 ft/lbs. torque) run stock IH rears and last 2 or 3 years when the driver does his job correctly. If you are running a light sled that will start easy then most of the brands out there will do OK, any brand can break on any given day. But if you are pulling a tough sled that starts heavy then you would be better off to get an IH, you will also not have the power loss from the belt slipping.
Bruce Litton