Author Topic: Thinking of getting into it...  (Read 231213 times)

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Offline Squidd

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Re: Might have something here...
« Reply #60 on: February 14, 2010, 10:28:56 am »
I'm gonna start tearing this apart today, In prep for sandblasting frame...

Plan is to do a total frame up resto/build rather than fight with the old rusty parts...

I'm going to assume I can strip this frame clean, and that I don't need any of the "factory" brackets, levers, or mounting plates for pulling application...

If there is anything I should "save" for later in the build let me know, (not that I'm throwing stuff away) but anything required for leagle build (eg: mower deck, or fender mounts or whatever)

Or if there are any parts that might have value on e-bay for stockers..?

Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline FlatheadPuller

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Re: Might have something here...
« Reply #61 on: February 14, 2010, 12:43:35 pm »
You will not need anything from the frame out left or right. If it has a creeper setup on it that is an easy $150 on ebay. You can use your own fenders or buy or build your own. In most cases it has to look like a tractor. Not like a cub cadet. You could build a set of fenders and make a Rugg hood grill fit it if you wanted. Keep the driveline. The stock clutch setup will bring some $ on ebay. The stock driver and hub will also sell on ebay. Not much but worth listing. I am unsure if NQS gets funny about welding holes shut on the frame rails.
Dennis Bazzett
Grandville Michigan

Offline Squidd

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Re: Might have something here...
« Reply #62 on: February 14, 2010, 01:02:02 pm »
What about this...??
Quote
PRESSURE PLATES ARE STOCK BUT ARE STRAIGHT AND WERE RESURFACED BEFORE ASSEMBLING.  HAS A VOGEL HIGH PERFORMANCE STOCK REPLACEMENT CLUTCH DISC WITH ABOUT 20 PASSES, GOOD CONDITION.  HAS A HARDENED DRIVESHAFT WITH AN 800 LB SPRING. 




This worth hanging on to..? or needs upgrade...?
Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline FlatheadPuller

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Re: Might have something here...
« Reply #63 on: February 14, 2010, 02:42:55 pm »
Randy that is a good stock setup up to a mild build behind a single cylinder. I ran the same setup behind my opposed on my cub. A friend of mine ran that same setup behind a 45hp v-twin. It made it 2/3rds the season before the disk gave out. I would sell it and upgrade to a 3 puck setup from a good supplier. Initially pricey but will give years of trouble free service. The only bad thing about the aftermarket replacement disks is the fact they will not take a 7500rpm launch from the line. They do not like to be slipped and cannot take a ton of heat.
Dennis Bazzett
Grandville Michigan

Offline Big daddy

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Re: Might have something here...
« Reply #64 on: February 15, 2010, 07:32:12 am »
Flatheadpuller is totally correct about the clutch, it will be good for a stock to a mild build, after that you will need to replace the spring with a yellow one, definately replace the pressure plates and the friction disc with a better aftermarket plate. The MWSC 3 puck will be good to between 40-50hp, 35-50ft.lbs, 4 puck up to about 60ft.lbs. If you use these you will have to come up with some way to cool them down between runs especially if you are winding the motor really tight and slipping the clutch alot. We have always used stressproof (1144) for driveshaft material, it is easily workable and will last without breaking providing you have everything lined up correctly and is not really expensive to buy.
Bruce Litton

Offline Squidd

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Re: Might have something here...
« Reply #65 on: February 15, 2010, 09:39:38 am »
Great... were going to have to come up with a list of desireable parts for this level of build, so I don't keep going out and buying the wrong stuff...

We should probably come up with a guide/list for the motor as well if I'm going to "piece" that together..
Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline FlatheadPuller

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Re: Might have something here...
« Reply #66 on: February 15, 2010, 02:58:08 pm »
For a bullet proof clutch you do not have to worry about. Pick up a 4 puck clutch setup from MWSC. It has all the parts in one package. front to rear. No questions asked.

A good engine combo would be a long rod, short piston setup from Vogel. A steel .340 290@.050 vogel cam and gear combo. That grind is what I am doing for my AGND. Chuck told me its easy on valve train and a great cam. makes big Hp in an altered. A billet head or thick recast from Vogel designed for Vogels cam grinds. Billet block closure plate, Vogels good starter and mtn bracket. That will crank anything its bolted to. 25-30lb flywheel. You need alot of enertia with an altered. At least a forged steel crank from Vogel. A stock crank is borrowed time in a kohler turning 8000rpm. A 1.0 carb. MWSC are good, easy on the pocket book. Vogels are worth a couple more HP on a dyno. Send Chuck a good #26 core and he will send back a killer S/A carb. His do cost a little more. If you get a cam from Vogel make sure to get there springs and lifters they recomend for there cam.

Thats my list of opinions.
Dennis
Dennis Bazzett
Grandville Michigan

Offline Squidd

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Re: Might have something here...
« Reply #67 on: February 15, 2010, 03:06:20 pm »
Quote
A good engine combo would be a long rod, short piston setup from Vogel

What do you mean by long rod short piston...?  I have seen rods from 5 3/4" to 6 1/4"  by eighths is there a matching piston pin height as well..?

I need to run stock stroke, so at least that parts is set....
Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline FlatheadPuller

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Re: Might have something here...
« Reply #68 on: February 15, 2010, 03:19:24 pm »
Yes exactly Randy. Call MWSC and ask for a catolog. In the back they have a rod and piston combo chart with desired stroke. I think you can get pistons with a CH of .875, 1.0, 1.125. These will when combined with the correct rod give you a flush deck height or pop the piston out up to .060. There is HP to gain they say by poping the piston out of the deck. I have always ran them flush because I have no dyno or access to one. Bruce can sharre more on this. I do know they will run better with a 6.0 rod and short piston versus a 5.3 rod and stock piston. 
Dennis Bazzett
Grandville Michigan

Offline Big daddy

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Re: Might have something here...
« Reply #69 on: February 15, 2010, 04:23:34 pm »
If you are going to pop the piston I would recommend either 0.09375" or 0.125" pop up depending on what you can get away with after all the deck relief’s are done. If you figure it out with an 8.625" deck height then you can run your own numbers. I personally recommend 0.125" even on a Kohler block, some guys say that it is too much but I have had really good luck with it. Your rod length will depend on your pin height and how much you pop up the piston. I highly recommend the gapless rings. Don't feel like you have to buy everything all at once. If you can weld the block, then do it first after it has been hot tanked, then remachine/square up the block even if you don't weld up the block, get your valves set in the block with new guides, if you can weld up the block you may want to look into moving the valves closer to the cylinder if your rules allow. If it were me to get started I would buy the piston, the valves the head, and the cam/lifters. With those parts you can get most of your engine done. Give me a shout before you buy your piston.

  Bruce
Bruce Litton

Offline FlatheadPuller

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Re: Might have something here...
« Reply #70 on: February 15, 2010, 09:15:24 pm »
Bruce if you don't mind my asking what kind of numbers do you see with piston popout versus zero deck? Is it worth a couple HP? More? Also who's piston are you using that has that much room above the first ring land.

Dennis
Dennis Bazzett
Grandville Michigan

Offline Big daddy

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Re: Might have something here...
« Reply #71 on: February 16, 2010, 07:31:45 am »
You may see a 1 or 2 HP difference, but the main gain is in torque. The trick is you do not want to relieve the deck area at the cylinder bore when popping up 0.125" otherwise you will expose the top ring, your reliefs may be a little steeper than you would have wanted but if you leave the deck area at the cylinder bore alone you should be fine, but you need to know how much has been shaved off when you have the deck trued up. This is key to know how much you can get away with when popping up the piston out of the cylinder, some Kohler blocks may not be able to pop up 0.125" but 0.0625" or 0.09375" is better than none in my opinion. I have been using Arias pistons in my motors for the past 20 years or so, but am planning on using a different piston this year. I talked with an individual who had changed from a 0.0625" to 0.125" pop up in a Kohler block motor in 1991, at that time he gained 2 hp, but also gained 5 ft/lbs. of torque. Most individuals will build it one way then leave it that way till they either sell the engine or build something different, that was one instance where I seen a side by side comparison.Ever since the aftermarket blocks came on the market I haven't heard of too many that were not popped up 0.125".
Bruce Litton

Offline pullingman

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Re: Tranny upgrade tutorial?
« Reply #72 on: March 15, 2010, 10:37:04 pm »
I agree with leaving the rearend open.  If you are pulling in a goverened stock class, then a welded would be ok, just be ready to place the front wheel bearings every year.  If you are running any open class, I highly suggest leaving the diff. open.  A good alternative that is actually fairly cheap is using a fine spline with the two piece carrier.  That is what I use in mine and I know several are used in the open rpm v-twins.  They have held up and hung in there with the dodge darts.   
Pullingman

Offline Squidd

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Re: Tire sizes
« Reply #73 on: March 19, 2010, 12:05:06 pm »
Rear wheels?

I've decided on 26"x12"x12" pro pulling tires, still looking for a good set used, with or without rims.

In the mean time, do I want 4x8 offset or 6x6 offset on the rims wider or narrow stance...?

100 series internal brake rear axle

I have heard narrow stance for "steering" advantage (shift weight) but also wider stance for "stability"...


Which is prefered....?
Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline Big daddy

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Re: Tire sizes
« Reply #74 on: March 19, 2010, 12:25:38 pm »
You are correct, the narrow rear will allow more control. My tractor did seem to hook better with a wider rear but would get out of control sometimes so I went with the narrower rear. I prefer the 6 x 6 offset, I think it will allow more options for spacing the rear end. There was an individual selling "new" 2 ply Cepek tires for $300 on GT pulling's web site. I don't know anything about that deal, but I would check it out real good before I buy.
Bruce Litton

 

anything