Mower Building / Setup Help > Garden Tractor Pulling
Thinking of getting into it...
Squidd:
This is going to be my "Build" thread for 16 hp S/A Tractor...
I started several threads prior to this, so I merged them all here to keep info together...The first couple pages may be a bit "jumpy" and hard to follow, but the remaining should stay in order...Official build began 3/20/10 when I pulled the donor tractor apart for sand blasting (about page 6)...
Due to some health concerns, I am no longer racing mowers on the roundy round (although I plan on campaigning Sami on the AP for the coming season)
I still do like to tinker and been looking into pulling as an option to stay involved with the little tractors.
Been looking around for a good starting platform, and ran across this older Cub 126
Has a 12 hp Kohler and direct drive clutch (not belt or hydro)
Looks like a three speed trans
And a solid looking rear end with brakes on each axle...
Is this a decent unit, whats it worth ? Guys is asking $500 which is a bit more than I have been paying for a starting "racing" chassis,but I realize this is a bit more substantial tractor.
Let me know thoughts , weaknesses I should be on look out for, or any other concerns I should have before dropping cash on this unit
If I do get into this, I will be looking into pulling in the Wisconsin/Mn, Midwest area
Any links to clubs would be appreciated
FlatheadPuller:
Randy, you could'nt start with anything better. That is what my Red Rocker I built started life as. Keep the kohler on it. You can buy anything for it all done just bolt it together. Depending on the class you build for the budget is small to large. To set it up for pulling you will need to shed the starter generator and install the ring gear flywheel, bearing plate and engine shroud. The generator is a HP robbing machine. Randy you can give me a call if you wish and I can tell you anything you want to know. You will have to upgrade the clutch, Do a 2-3 gear swap in the trans, make 2nd and 3rd more desireable for pulling. There are alot of things to do on a cub, but you can get something belt drive for less money if your just starting. But I would get the cub. The rear end in it is called an external brake rear end. The carriers are week but you can weld the diff and cure the problem and it will hold up depending on what you build for a power plant.Here is an excellent club to get involved in.
http://www.wgtpinc.org/
Squidd:
Thanks Dennis, I got your number and will probably give you a call, just not sure what questions to ask yet..
Been looking thru the pulling section here, the WGYP site as well as Gopher State site...
Probably start in the stock/altered class and work my way up as I get more exposure.
Lots to look at...
Big daddy:
That is not a bad price for the tractor in its shape and what is there. I have seen many "82" series go for around $300 but not everything is there when you buy it. That frame is what a lot of pullers in NQS are using, the narrow frame with the high tunnel. Depending on what you are wanting to do with this tractor and of course what money you are wanting to spend will determine what mods, you can do. If it were me I would leave the starter off of it and use a start cart, less weight fewer hassels with the electrical system, and you will not have to do any cutting on the frame to make everything fit.
Mowermatt:
Check this guys web site out. http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/index.htm
And of course http://www.midwestsupercub.net/default.asp
Cubs are just about the best platform to build from. I pulled an old "original" cub for years and was undefeated one season in the 750 lb class. We also pulled a few Panzers and a newer style Cub 782. My favorite by far was the Rotax powered Modified we pulled. That was fun!
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