Topic: Thinking of getting into it...

[Squidd]

This is going to be my "Build" thread for 16 hp S/A Tractor...
I started several threads prior to this, so I merged them all here to keep info together...The first couple pages may be a bit "jumpy" and hard to follow, but the remaining should stay in order...Official build began 3/20/10 when I pulled the donor tractor apart for sand blasting (about page 6)...

Due to some health concerns, I am no longer racing mowers on the roundy round (although I plan on campaigning Sami on the AP for the coming season)

I still do like to tinker and been looking into pulling as an option to stay involved with the little tractors.

Been looking around for a good starting platform, and ran across this older Cub 126

 

Has a 12 hp Kohler and direct drive clutch (not belt or hydro)



Looks like a three speed trans



And a solid looking rear end with brakes on each axle...




Is this a decent unit, whats it worth ? Guys is asking $500 which is a bit more than I have been paying for a starting "racing" chassis,but I realize this is a bit more substantial tractor.

Let me know thoughts , weaknesses I should be on look out for, or any other concerns I should have before dropping cash on this unit

If I do get into this, I will be looking into pulling in the Wisconsin/Mn, Midwest area

Any links to clubs would be appreciated

[FlatheadPuller]

Randy, you could'nt start with anything better. That is what my Red Rocker I built started life as. Keep the kohler on it. You can buy anything for it all done just bolt it together. Depending on the class you build for the budget is small to large. To set it up for pulling you will need to shed the starter generator and install the ring gear flywheel, bearing plate and engine shroud. The generator is a HP robbing machine. Randy you can give me a call if you wish and I can tell you anything you want to know. You will have to upgrade the clutch, Do a 2-3 gear swap in the trans, make 2nd and 3rd more desireable for pulling. There are alot of things to do on a cub, but you can get something belt drive for less money if your just starting. But I would get the cub. The rear end in it is called an external brake rear end. The carriers are week but you can weld the diff and cure the problem and it will hold up depending on what you build for a power plant.Here is an excellent club to get involved in.

http://www.wgtpinc.org/

[Squidd]

Thanks Dennis, I got your number and will probably give you a call, just not sure what questions to ask yet..

Been looking thru the pulling section here, the WGYP site as well as Gopher State site...

Probably start in the stock/altered class and work my way up as I get more exposure.

Lots to look at...

[Big daddy]

That is not a bad price for the tractor in its shape and what is there. I have seen many "82" series go for around $300 but not everything is there when you buy it. That frame is what a lot of pullers in NQS are using, the narrow frame with the high tunnel. Depending on what you are wanting to do with this tractor and of course what money you are wanting to spend will determine what mods, you can do. If it were me I would leave the starter off of it and use a start cart, less weight fewer hassels with the electrical system, and you will not have to do any cutting on the frame to make everything fit.

[Mowermatt]

Check this guys web site out. http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/index.htm

And of course http://www.midwestsupercub.net/default.asp

Cubs are just about the best platform to build from. I pulled an old "original" cub for years and was undefeated one season in the 750 lb class. We also pulled a few Panzers and a newer style Cub 782. My favorite by far was the Rotax powered Modified we pulled. That was fun!

[outlawmower]

Squidd, If you need any help or have any questions feel free to shoot me a PM. Be glad to help anytime.

[Squidd]

Appreciate it guys...

I let this Cub go, after looking on here and some of the pulling sites ...then I checked e-bay ....and then the puller classified, I thing I may just have to follow the advise I give all the new circle racers...

I need to go to an event (a couple) in my area see what the competition is running in the class I might want to try... and then look around in the pits cause there is probably a machine or two out there with a for sale sign on it.

But I will definitely be hanging around this section a bit more...

[FlatheadPuller]

Keep in mind Randy when starting out. If you find a old wheel horse or deere both are belt drive you can't go wrong if you pick them up cheap. I paid $50 for my boys wheel horse and it was complete. My deere was a little more at $200 but hey its a deere. Also if your looking at starting in the lower Hp classes geared more toward stock stuff any belt drive with a 5 bolt wheel and a 4 speed cast iron peerless with a horizontal shaft engine would give you a good base to build on. Where I pull our stock class is 4000rpm on the governor and very fun along with very competitive. I find alot of them at the local auto salvage yard and the local metal recycling plant.

[Squidd]

Is there a big difference or "rule of thumb" on picking a tire size..?

For Example 23"x 10.5 x 12 is good to 16hp altered stock...?? you can't use the leverage of the 26"s unless you have 18 hp or more open class...?? all depends on gearing so get what's available...?

I'm starting to collect parts, so what part comes first (motor, frame, axle,) that determines what comes next, or what goes with what...(tires, gearing, class)??

[Caudy155]

i dont know your rules for your stock alt. class but all the stock alt. guys in our club are running 26x12x12 cepeks... what kind of tractor are you building?

[Squidd]

Well, Like I say, I'm still in the parts collecting process, but Dennis and Bruce swayed me toward an older Cub shaft drive as the choice for frame and axle, haven't picked a motor but leaning toward Kohler Single cyl 12-16 hp, but if my tractor comes with a motor that will obviously influance my decision.

You say everyone runs the 26"s but "why"...?? It would seem a taller tire with larger contact patch would be the way to go, but is there an advantage to the smaller tires ie: spin up or leverage..?

I don't know, that's why I'm asking, I don't like to buy stuff "just cause everyone else did"... give me a reason...

[FlatheadPuller]

Randy if your building a S\A tractor your going to want a 26-12-12. It will flat out pull a 23 inch tire. No questions asked. A altered tractor will have more gear, faster speed, more momentum down the track and you just can't get it with a 23inch tire. If you can run a pulling tire where your going to pull a Vogel brand tire is the way to go. They are alot less money and are a heck of a tire. We use VM07's  and VM08's. IF you your building a stock class tractor then get a set of Vogels TT's. They have the same comound as the VM's just in a 23-10.50-12. If you run an altered tractor with 23's in a 26 tire class you will get beat because of it. But make sure the tire is legal for the club. Most every club that runs an altered class runs a 26-12-12 tire rule.

Dennis

[philr85]

building a big oll puller huh i hope you  give us some build pics squid

[Squidd]

Makes sense on the 26"s, for leverage and spin up, and they are allowed, (I'm looking at Wisconsin GT Pullers INC and Gopher State GT Pullers rules for now) but not the Vogels..

I'm probably looking used, is the Goodyear AG bar a desireable "stock" brand....?

building a big oll puller huh i hope you  give us some build pics squid

That I will, already starting to get the itch to fire something up...

[FlatheadPuller]

Try and find a firestone 23* flotation in the 26-12-12 or a carlise super lug. You want some thing with a wide thick bar so it won't fold back on you. Also stay away from tires that have bars close together in spacing. I think titan true powers are decent as well. big bar cepeks are good as well. I personally run only carlise super lugs.