Author Topic: actual driveline  (Read 22918 times)

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Offline MowRacing

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #15 on: October 07, 2009, 02:33:14 pm »
I have a newer cub that runs with a drive shaft the only downside is its a hydro so it wont work... also you wont be able to change your pully's... if I read this right???
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Offline marcritter

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #16 on: October 07, 2009, 09:49:35 pm »
wow you guys are awesome to be debating like this over my post. thanks guys so much. so my problem with all this is that i don't want the belt running on the bushing if i get a little mud and seize the bushing then there goes a belt. also with my five second design ( obviously needs allot of refining) it  gives me an option to change the pulleys (top and bottom) to give me different ratio's. also the clutch is simply a tension pulley.
no cent. or torque type clutch. the brake was just an idea but i will definitely follow the rules. also the rotational weight ( if any) might give me a little more stick on the outside....maybe     lol
Marc Ritter
Yuba City Ca
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Offline MowRacing

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #17 on: October 07, 2009, 09:58:08 pm »
You should be able to replace the bushings with two pulleys right???
Email- DirtRider03716@aol.com
Jessey Kirouac
Im a winner in my own races.

Offline marcritter

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #18 on: October 08, 2009, 01:32:52 pm »
that might also work i was also thinking that i might be able to get bigger bushings and put sealed bearings in it i guess. Does a pound or two make a difference overall on these things? I never thought about the weight being a problem with the drive shaft.
Marc Ritter
Yuba City Ca
We do it in the dirt

Offline Rooster

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #19 on: October 09, 2009, 02:13:01 am »
while a pound or two does not make a difference, that pound, this one and the 30 other spots you could of saved it does!
And I doubt what your talking about would be a pound or two.
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Offline marcritter

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #20 on: October 09, 2009, 11:47:52 am »
so I can't twist the motor 90 degrees in C/P class. I shouldn't add the drive line because of too much weight.
So i'm left with what i have to begin with and should just update the rollers.
Marc Ritter
Yuba City Ca
We do it in the dirt

Offline Squidd

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #21 on: October 10, 2009, 09:40:02 am »
No, you should look thru the build section at proven driveline layouts and copy what works and is dependable


ie: 700 and cart axle or 600/820 trans axle and jackshaft
Randy Stys
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Offline Toadworks

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #22 on: October 11, 2009, 10:06:02 am »
Humble opinion here,  call the USLMRA (847-272-2120) or ARMA (http://www.golawnmowerracing.com/contact.php) and ask the Technical Advisor if your motor can be turned 90 degrees and still be legal for the class you want to run in. This sport is not an absolute science yet. Of course there are many PROVEN things to do (700/live axle) but that does not mean something else won't work or be legal. I still think that rotating the motor adding a RAGB and putting a "normal" clutch on the horizontal belt would be legal. You haven't changed the orientation of the motor (taking a vert shaft and mounting it horz.) You are still using the original clearance hole for the PTO, (there technically isn't one). You are not using a centrifical clutch, and still utilizing a shift-able trans axle. Again my advise is to ask the head honcho, not us peons that like a certain set-up (I prefer the 700/live axle btw)

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Offline Squidd

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #23 on: October 11, 2009, 10:55:13 am »
Its not so much a matter of legality as it is of practicality....

Twisted belt system simply won't hold up to the higher rpms of a racing mowchine, allow a slip clutch to work properly, and loses a good bit of hp in the twist...

It's not the first time some one has tride this and the result is we don't see many (if any) on the track that do work.. even a little

So why try to reinvent the wheel when there are proven methods that work and work well

If you have time look up Case racers setup with a cub clutch/driveshaft direct to 700 set on its side...Nice idea, but impractiable and hard to keep together.

Not trying to discourage "thinking out of the box" but alot of these "new" ideas have been tried numerous times before and for various reasons didn't (don't) work out


Just trying to save you from the hassle and dissapointment and set you on the right track with again a proven/reliable setup
Randy Stys
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 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline Toadworks

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #24 on: October 11, 2009, 12:25:41 pm »
Correct the twisted belt systems do not work for higher RPM machines and I agree with you, "Why re-invent the wheel?"

I stand behind my idea as it is being used by others, maybe in other clubs/classes but it is a viable solution to his mower, just maybe not for the class he wants to run. That is why I continue to point towards the tech advisors of the sanctioning bodies to get their input. They would, in my opinion have the final say about rotating the motor and using a RAGB to take the horizontal PTO (vertical belt) and turn it 90 degrees to run a horizontal belt to a transaxle. This set-up is used by Hitch on one of his builds (accept the class it is built for allows centrifical clutches) I have also seen FX and AP machines using the same concept with jackshafts and chains. The idea is soild, the question remains; will it pass tech for USLMRA's CP class?

Offline Squidd

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #25 on: October 11, 2009, 03:48:50 pm »
If you used an ragb to make the 90 then went to mower tranny/transaxle with a belt clutch then yes it would pass USLMRA tech

At that point though you wouldn't really need to "turn" the motor from original orientation to get the 90* effect...
Randy Stys
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 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline Toadworks

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #26 on: October 11, 2009, 04:41:54 pm »
I suppose there might be room to do that. Hmmmmm  what if you simply coupled the the RAGB and the PTO shafts and eliminated the one belt.......?  That might actually help with the lowering of the rear end.   

Offline Rooster

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #27 on: October 11, 2009, 07:36:57 pm »
Your still going to lose power in your ragb.
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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #28 on: October 11, 2009, 09:21:11 pm »
Everything you pass power through robs power.. everytime power has to change direction you lose power.

Make it simple

Offline GTX21

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #29 on: October 11, 2009, 09:45:31 pm »
We are talking driveshaft ( direct drive) like a sprinter is setup, right?
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