Author Topic: actual driveline  (Read 22807 times)

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Offline marcritter

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actual driveline
« on: October 04, 2009, 05:38:00 pm »
Is it okay to run an actual driveline from the motor to my tranny. Kinda like a divorced trans setup. I was under the assumption that i cannot rotate the motor to run it sideways. i tried searching this but i never really get to far with the searching on this site. don't want to run the belt down and around some bushings to make it level with the tranny like it is currently. Of course I I would do this safely with a driveline loop and anything else that i need. It would also be a perfect place to attach a good big braking system to.
Any thoughts....
Marc Ritter
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Offline GTX21

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2009, 05:56:14 pm »
Is it okay to run an actual driveline from the motor to my tranny. Kinda like a divorced trans setup. I was under the assumption that i cannot rotate the motor to run it sideways. i tried searching this but i never really get to far with the searching on this site. don't want to run the belt down and around some bushings to make it level with the tranny like it is currently. Of course I I would do this safely with a driveline loop and anything else that i need. It would also be a perfect place to attach a good big braking system to.
Any thoughts....
If im reading this right, how would you incorprate a clutch? Basically you mean like a driveshaft  RR drive cars, Right?
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Offline marcritter

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #2 on: October 06, 2009, 01:48:03 pm »
Yes thats what i was thinking of doing. and yes i have been trying to think of a clutch  and have a few ideas but that would be maybe another thread. I was just curious what the deal is. Believe me I've read the rules numerous times and it says if its not here then you can't do it but there are lots of mods happening that weren't discussed in the rules so I thought I would ask. And any ideas or thoughts would be cool too.
Marc Ritter
Yuba City Ca
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Offline GTX21

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #3 on: October 06, 2009, 01:55:35 pm »
I doubt you would find a tranny or transaxle that is mower orginated that
would hold up to a direct drive shaft
Nathan Mansberger
                   
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Offline birdman_express

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #4 on: October 06, 2009, 02:03:48 pm »
What rules are you building to?
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Offline Old Goat

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #5 on: October 06, 2009, 02:08:49 pm »
I'm not 100 percent sure, but I thought that all the ARMA classes other than pro-x & supermod had to have a vertical shaft engine.
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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #6 on: October 06, 2009, 03:17:37 pm »
I don't think you will find a club that will allow that. That is a system you would have found on the old Cub Cadets etc that you see pulling. That option was only available on a Garden Tractor not a Lawn Tractor so it would outside the scope of the Lawn Tractor racing rules.


Offline marcritter

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #7 on: October 06, 2009, 03:54:00 pm »
 uslmra rules, with an opposed twin. Heres what i had in mind. I am thinking with the motor size and what not I would go with B/P
Marc Ritter
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Offline Toadworks

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #8 on: October 06, 2009, 04:47:53 pm »
CP is where 20 HP and under OHV and valve in block twins run. USLMRA rules allow you turn the motor. It only states that the PTO has go through the original clearance hole. Turn it sideways and add a RAGB (right angle gear box)

Offline birdman_express

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #9 on: October 06, 2009, 04:57:17 pm »
You need a different transaxle. Find a Peerless 820 if possible.
Look in the build section for Son's build. That is what you are
looking for.

http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=2457.0
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Offline Toadworks

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #10 on: October 06, 2009, 05:02:19 pm »
You need a different transaxle.

How did you come to that conclusion? Nothing in this post says what he currently has. I agree with you the 820 is the best tranbsaxle to have, I just can't see how you can quantify that statement.

Offline Rooster

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #11 on: October 06, 2009, 06:15:07 pm »
CP is where 20 HP and under OHV and valve in block twins run. USLMRA rules allow you turn the motor. It only states that the PTO has go through the original clearance hole. Turn it sideways and add a RAGB (right angle gear box)


Quote
1) Engine must be originally manufactured for use in lawn mowing equipment    and be stock in appearance, with the exception of air filter, air cleaner or velocity
   stack. Crankshaft must be in original orientation and clearance hole in the frame.
   Engine may be internally modified.

No, you cannot change the orientation of the engine in prepared classes. Only in FX!


Quote
4) Driveline may be modified from the engine pulley to the rear wheels, but must
   utilize a shiftable lawnmower transmission or transaxle. Vari-drivers may only
   be used in an original installation.

you could use a driveshaft, if you could do it without changing engine orientation?

Quote
6) No centrifugal and or torque converter clutches.

Don't forget this

Quote
22) Must use axle mounted brakes, no lawnmower transaxle or transmission
   mounted brakes.

Nope, couldn't put your brakes under there.


Now with all the legality covered, I must ask....Why?
All you've accomplished is a whole lot of un-needed weight!

Belt drive is easy, reliable when done right, and the lightest way to mow!
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Offline GTX21

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #12 on: October 06, 2009, 06:22:47 pm »
Im not saying im right here but, the straighter you can get the drive the better, a pulley setup you would think you would lose power from the change in verticle to horiz and vice versa. Now how much power, i dont know, enough to tell? proably not.
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Offline Toadworks

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #13 on: October 06, 2009, 06:38:31 pm »
I realize I should have used the term "rotate". He has a horizontal shaft motor, he isn't changing the orientation of the PTO by turning it so it sticks out side to side instead of front to rear. As far the clearance hole, it doesn't technically exist on his mowchine, does it?  Anyway, with a RAGB he can have a "normal" clutch on the horizontal belt going to the transaxle.

I could be very wrong as Rooster points to some very good information from the rule book. But I still think it would work. If you are gonna run at sanctioned events, I would contact the respective technical advisors to find out for sure before you jump into a build that can't pass tech.

Offline birdman_express

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Re: actual driveline
« Reply #14 on: October 07, 2009, 02:36:35 am »
How did you come to that conclusion? Nothing in this post says what he currently has. I agree with you the 820 is the best tranbsaxle to have, I just can't see how you can quantify that statement.

I see, several posts ran together, and I got distracted on this one,.


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